Everybody loved the Rochambeau presentation. The smoke filled, thumping bassline filled space gathered a high-end, street-style guy crowd. Supreme helped out but the space was free of branding enabling the designers to express a pure and strong metropolitan energy.

Rochambeau, Joshua Cooper and Laurence Chandler, always manage to do something design led, young and fresh, without falling into club clown territory. Rochambeau is more sophisticated than that. The printed jumpsuits, placket panel shirts, layered blazers, warped cardigans and "exaggerated shirts" look more like something Raf Simons would have come up with if he’d have spent his youth listening to the Wu-Tang instead of Joy Division.

Cooper explained it thus, "we’re always trying to do something different, and set the trend for progressive menswear in New York. We make everything in New York, and we take real pride in standing out. At the same time, we’re working with silhouettes that are very wearable, but with a twist." Yes, a thumping sub-bass sizzurp twist.

They also showed their first ever print. The designer said "that’s Dante’s Inferno, so it’s the circles of hell. Every time you go into folklore, there’s always a darkness and horror, and that’s where we pulled the collection together. Take the bright everyday world, and add the darkness and horror from a print, and you have a story.

On his ambitions for the label Cooper said, "we’d really like to be considered in the same realm as someone like Rick Owens. That’s really an objective for us. We’ve spent tremendous time on the detail, and on the quality on the fit." This collection definitely builds on the growing international renown they so fully deserve.

Photography by Andrew Boyle, Amanda Hakan, and Erica Capabianca

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