HIP YOUNG GUNSLINGERS RIFF ON #MADEFW
During New York fashion week, we asked three of our favorite, younger New York based editors for their take on MADE fashion week and NYFW in general.
Indigo Clarke is Showstudio’s New York correspondent, US editor of ASOS, features editor of RIKA and a contributor to Wonderland, British Harpers Bazaar, and Lula.
MILKMADE: How did you feel about Jeremy Scott’s darker turn this season at MADE Fashion Week?
INDIGO CLARKE: Well the music was amazing – Jeremy’s DJ, Michel Goubert was playing all the best 90s R&B – Aaliyah was great. It was a pretty Sheikh-Chic collection – a lot of Middle Eastern references: burka-like sheaths, Afghan scarves, a lot of gold and bling like little machine gun medallions – definitely a tongue-in-cheek take on some serious issues. Jeremy Scott is just super fun – his shows are always a breath of fresh air during New York Fashion Week, which can feel quite commercial and straight. I think there’s something really wonderful about the crowd he always has attending – a lot of musicians and artists.
MM: Who have you been most excited to meet at fashion week?
IC: My all time favorite thing about fashion week has been meeting Grimes, who I’m actually obsessed with. Grimes is important because she’s a creator and what she’s doing is quite original and unique. She’s not trying to be sexy, she’s interesting and what she wears is indicative of her personality. She’s the kind of girl that young girls should be inspired by.
And chatting with Tavi was another massive highlight! Her web-mag Rookie.com is incredible – Tavi’s a young feminist and this website is devoted to all things that teen girls and beyond are interested in, including but far surpassing fashion alone. She looks at fashion as something that’s important because it’s a part of everything that’s happening culturally.
Working at VICE is 24 year old Ohioan Wilbert Cooper‘s first job after NYU grad school. He writes on for the magazine’s website daily on music, fashion and just about everything else. Wilbert didn’t receive an invite to his hero Patrick Ervell’s show, so we snuck him in through the back door…**
MILKMade.com: What did you think of Patrick Ervell’s show MADE Fashion Week at Milk on Sunday?
Wilbert Cooper: I liked the Orange, and he keeps building on the same themes, no one does a better button down club collar. His clothes make you feel special, they’re simple and masculine, but look stylish. You can go beyond the old idea of masculine, where everything looked the same and didn’t fit. Instead his clothes look modern but normal, but with a special silk lining inside the pants or a regular wind breaker with mother of pearl buttons. I could buy his stuff and keep it in my wardrobe forever.
MM: What for you are the key New York Fashion Week trends?
WC: You know I know Fashion night out is cheesy but there were a shit tonne of black people kicking it there. I’m seeing a lot more diversity a lot of blacks getting into doing some swag stuff. I’m inspired by that. When I walk outside of Milk I see a lot of brothers and sisters getting their picture taken. I’m trippin off that. Even Patrick Ervell was playing a dubstep remix of Bone Thugs N Harmony.
Patrik Sandberg, 27, is V magazine’s Senior and Online Editor
MILKMade.com: So can you lend us your thoughts on the MADE fashion week show by Alexandre Plohkov that happened on Sunday?
Patrick Sandberg: I think that Alexandre’s show was solid and of the quality we’ve come to expect from him. Everything that he does has an element of darkness, which is something he’s not alone in, but what draws me to his work in particular is that I find it to be incredibly pure. His inspirations are more organic than the result of some kind of trend analysis or exercise in branding. I feel like I get to know the designer through his clothes season after season. And nothing appeals to me more in fashion than when a collection is timeless. I love when you look at something like a Yohji Yamamoto collection from 1991 and realize that it hasn’t aged. Immortality is the point, right?
MM: Can you name New York’s most innovative designers?
PS: The answer to this is obvious: Telfar and Hood By Air. Telfar has been producing collections for fifteen seasons and his always feels like the newest, most innovative, creatively satisfying show of the week for me. He’s a designer in the most basic sense of the word. He has a focus on functionality that is experimental and at the same time completely inventive. It’s also wearable, which is important to stress because I think people tend to think of experimental and functional design as two different things. You can see his influence in younger designers and I’ve even seen much more established brands blatantly copy him. Yet somehow, the brand has never managed to get the sort of funding and support that many other emerging brands have. It’s clear that Vogue and the CFDA have a monopoly on American fashion that is detrimental to artistry. You can watch season after season as the designers they’ve embraced merge closer and closer into this ominous singularity…you can hardly tell anything apart.
MM: Who else is doing interesting work in the New York fashion world right now?
PS: The reason for this is simple, and it’s that retail is the primary focus of the industry, not artistry. When Vogue sells an idea of luxury—and by virtue of that, happiness—to the public, it restricts the potential for new ideas in the marketplace and puts designers into a singular lane. This establishment’s failure to recognize the work of designers like Telfar, to me, is a crime. But I believe he’ll ultimately get the recognition he deserves. In terms of Hood By Air, you get this passionate, flamboyant bravery in terms of design, but it’s coming from an urban perspective which is just so special and rare. It’s reflective of an incredible merging of cultural histories, from the ballroom scene of Harlem to hip-hop and urban sportswear, and it appeals to both gay and straight consumers. I live in Bed-Stuy, and when I take the train home from fashion shows I’m reminded that the majority of people don’t care about this stuff and don’t adhere to it. There are mass aesthetic languages in fashion being dismissed in order to cater to the highest-spending tier of fashion consumers—rich white women. I feel like urban designers like Shayne Oliver at Hood By Air are underrepresented in fashion, and so are African-American designers in general. It gives me the creeps.
MM: Who is really adding energy to the New York fashion scene at the moment?
PS: I’m excited about the energy being generated by Opening Ceremony this season with its ten-year anniversary. In the last decade OC has come to represent a new hope for a lot of people when it comes to getting creative voices heard. I think a lot of us probably take it for granted, but Carol Lim and Humberto Leon deserve tremendous credit. They’ve erected their own universe and given a leg up to a lot of new brands and designers and paved the way for a lot of people. To see them continually embrace emerging designers is inspiring and encouraging. The world could use a lot more Carols and Humbertos.