Veronique Branquinho: Queen of the Pleats makes come-back today

The launch show for MADE in Paris also doubles as a return after a three year break for major fashion talent Veronique Branquinho. To say we’re honored is an understatement. The 39-year-old Belgian born designer is showing for the first time since 2009, thanks to a timely investment by her new Italian manufacturing partners Gibo.

Called by some the ‘queen of the pleated skirt’ Branquinho debuted her line in 1997 and a menswear collection in 2003. She once appeared in a film Raf Simons showed, at his first ever show in Milan in 1995, and dated the superstar designer for five years, the lucky thing. And in the late nineties along with Simons co-designed for luxury high fashion leather goods company Ruffo Research, known at the time for zoning in on big names of the future. Later, there were collaborations with glasses specialists Linda Farrow, a spell as artistic director of the world’s oldest luxury goods house Delavaux, lingerie for posh Belgian knicker line Marie Jo L’Aventure and shoes and sandals for Spanish footwear giants Camper. Indeed, Branquinho is so renowned in the more cerebral echelons of fashion that Antwerp’s prestigious museum of fashion, MOMu, a wonderful institution housed in the same building as the fashion department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, held a retrospective of her work back in 2008.

The designer once told’s Tim Blanks she was a "die hard romantic" but she marries this to what New York Magazine term "a sense of modesty and decorum". This translates as beautiful clothes with clean lines mostly in neutral colors, those pleated skirts, tweedy tailoring and decadent materials such as furs rendered in classic silhouettes like a trench coat, that are somehow too weird and too simple to ever date. All designed for and loved by those that want to portray a sophisticated knowledge of style and a considered edge but not shout their love of fashion. She might be difficult to pigeon hole but women love to wear her.

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