RUNWAY AND REVIEW: DAMIR DOMA
Damir Doma menswear is worshipped by contemplative fashion students everywhere and worn by the most conceptual of shop assistants as well as rich mittel European architects, now his womenswear is coming to the fore.
This season Croation born, the former Raf Simons employee, Damir Doma‘s show notes began with a quote on collage by Max Ernst, the German painter, sculptor, poet and pioneer of Dadaist and surrealist thinking – "collage is the noble conquest of the irrational, the coupling of two realities irreconcilable in appearance, upon a plan which apparently does not suit them."
Yikes! As well as making your head hurt a bit, it’s actually a pretty good summary of the way most of us take the iconic ready made staples of fashion and combine them in ways that say something we hope is uniquely us, and more importantly of what Doma was trying to achieve with his strange and unusual combinations of materials, colors and textures.
On the runway during MADE in Paris, this translated as zippered dresses, biker inspired sash tied jackets, neat shirts and short skirts in metallic blues, teal green, and brown, black and navy leathers with some refreshing all white looks. There were blazers in crinkled silk, and experimentation with materials like papery raffia, flyaway polyamides, stiff garbadine, plastic coated jersey and lizard. There were tunic vests with classic perfecto biker jacket detailing, metal healed shoes, dresses with a knitwear top half and a pair of pleated pants made from an old bag. The almost steampunk-esque sunglasses were the result of a collaboration with Berlin based label Mykita.
Afterwards, Paris based Damir Doma said, "after showing for ten seasons including my menswear and as someone who doesn’t like to be put into boxes, as someone who believes fashion is about change, I needed to experiment, last season I finally defined my woman, but this time I think the most important decision was to be more precise and more clean."
For more content on MADE fashion week in Paris click through to TheSwitch.fr
Photography by NOWfashion