RUNWAY AND REVIEW: MUGLER
It’s such a truism it’s become a cliché but Nicola Formichetti’s Mugler is brilliant at hype and social networking. If others in fashion don’t understand how or why, they should retire. Not for nothing was Tumblr’s fashion director and card carrying "Fashion Evangelist" Valentine Uhovski present, as well as blue haired rap sensation Azealia Banks and editors with intuition for trends like Anna Dello Russo and Jefferson Hack.
The hype around the social networking is such that people forget that the clothes are rather brilliant in a, who wouldn’t want to dress like Nicki Minaj if she was the president of Renault, or extreme fashion fan Yulia Tymoshenko goes disco dancing at Silencio way. Which is exactly as should be. Back when Theirry was in charge he famously said the label was for Michael Jackson and President Mitterand’s wife.
The sexy hourglass dresses, nipped waists, wide lantern sleeves and tiny all revealing skirts, one look in brightest canary yellow, came with a matching set of shorts to preserve modesty. Colors were mostly muted, but there were some black looks for those without faith in the bronzy chocolate in abundance. Newness wasn’t just present on the catwalk but also in the air by way of sounds provided by the show’s musical director Lady Gaga, and her unreleased single Cake, a Zebra Katz-ish rap track. The world is turning summersaults over her weight and she releases a single called Cake? That’s funny.
Most significantly last night also saw the launch of an accessories line. Boxy handbags, clutches and a trapeze shaped clutch inspired by Lady Gaga’s bum. Given the youth of a lot of Mugler’s fans and the brand’s marketing resonance in Asia, this line will find its audience. According to the press release Formichetti was inspired this season by his equatorial travels, which again given the cities and global economies that are really booming, is another form of newness.
Materials appeared to be leather or acrylic but back stage I was told by a member of the design team that pieces like the mostly crème caramel blouse with bright blue and red bleeding into it, were actually silk-screened jersey multiple times to create a fantastic lacquered affect. It was also sort of reminiscent of those pre-Jonathan Ive greige coloured Macintosh computers and their rainbow Apple logo’s, and since amongst the kids nineties computing is very in, that’s a good thing.
For more content on MADE fashion week in Paris click through to TheSwitch.fr
Photography by NOWfashion