To an early morning black metal soundtrack, Katie Gallagher sent a parade of pale-faced goth girls down her runway, clad uniformly in layers of jersey, boiled wool and textured, in shades of raven, blue-black and slate grey. “I wanted the whole collection to look cold and heavy,” said the designer, watching from the sidelines and the best possible poster girl for her own collection in a floor-skimming silver and black bias cut skirt and cropped, long-sleeved cut-away mesh tank top. Titled The Winter That Froze You Away; “I was inspired by Dr Zhivago,’ she said, “and really Nordic-looking ice maidens.”

The skirt appeared again on the runway – a staple, along with form fitting yet slouchy jersey dresses, which were blanketed with warm knits and multiple variations on the hoodie. Spidery, twig-like details in laser cut leather, appeared as belts, cuffs, or simply hemmed shorter skirts and dresses. Long laces attached to zippers gave them a sporty twist. Styled over polka-dot mesh leggings, worn with clomping, sky high wedges by Plomo, the effect was feminine yet tough, quiet riot grrrl. Or Bella Swan if she ran away and landed in a squat party on the Lower East Side circa 1993.

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