MODERN Androgyny: Jonathan Simkhai at MADE
New York native Jonathan Simkhai is a member of the CFDA Fashion Incubator programme, having launched his eponymous womenswear label in 2010. Starting always from a sharp, menswear perspective, Simkhai is already known for his androgynous aesthetic, and his aw13 showcase was no exception. Handout notes included a mood board of black and white images of 1980s ska bands, and there were several examples of preppy, slim cut suiting reminiscent of that era.
Shrunken varsity and bomber jackets in quilted oxblood and black leather were paired with short fitted, a-line or asymmetric skirts, and in one fine example, a perfectly cut pair of slim-fitting mustard yellow pants. Cocktail dresses in teal and black taffeta were given a tom-boy touch, styled with flat caps and ankle socks, while sweaters were layered over two-tone Oxfords and paired with yet more minis. A black pony hair leather tee worn with a jumbo plaid wide leg trouser was an elegant evening look, while a pixel print repeated throughout gave the collection a futuristic touch.