It’s quite possible the majority of people sitting in the mammoth tailback clogging the lower reaches of Broadway were on their way to Alexander Wang’s aw13 show at Art Deco behemoth The Cunard Building, and as the hour drew nearer cars were abandoned as the likes of Derek Blasberg decided to brave the snowy sidewalks and run the last few blocks. Nobody wanted to miss this, the 29-year-old designer’s last outing before his design smarts are really put to the test in his new gig at Balenciaga in three weeks time.

The show opened to the dramatic chords of Survivor’s Eye of the Tiger, the theme tune for Sly Stone’s Rocky III, a nod to the boxing references in some of the early looks – massively outsized faux fur mittens, ribbed knit caps tucked under matching snoods, a robe-like shearling coat-dress and even a (highly covetable) tube-sock take on his signature wedge mule. But check out the lyrics, and he might also have been stating his intentions in Paris; “So many times it happens too fast, You trade your passion for glory, Don’t lose your grip on the dreams of the past, You must fight just to keep them alive…”

As the soundtrack segued into booming Berlin techno, he sent out a monochromatic parade of structural yet easy separates. For day, outsized sweaters were paired with pencil or longer A-line skirts, all in fuzzy brushed mohair. Cosy textures like these were offset by pieces in shiny leather and heavy silks. Waist and crotch were dropped in draped, deco inspired dresses and pants for evening, while the only splash of colour was a skirt and jacket in chestnut red pony skin – to match the clip-on ponytails on his ever-austere looking girls.

Photography by Balarama Heller

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