DARK MASCULINITY: EN NOIR PRESENT AT MADE
Dealing in what he describes as "monochromatic minimalism," EN NOIR designer Rob Garcia explains that his design process begins and ends with the colour black. "And the truth is, most things do look better in black," says the man who honed his streetwear design smarts at West Coast label Black Scale. Sharing the same sensibility as labels like Givenchy, Rick Owens and Balmain, Garcia’s aw13 presentation at MADE Fashion Week was a study in the same tough luxe menswear aesthetic – think slimline but masculine shapes, textural layering…and lots of leather.
Silhouetted against a backdrop of electric blue light, reflected in just one or two statement blue pieces, streetwear staples were elevated with the use of luxurious fabrics and intricate, yet subtle, finishing touches. Leather tunics, cut slim to show of toned torsos and arms, featured gladiator detailing; deep hoods shaded models’ faces to oblivion while leather pants were cut both slim and slouchy. Meanwhile, sleek suiting featured yet more leather, this time on lapels, or quilted on the raglan-cut arms of a slender wool overcoat.