Belgian menswear designer Tim Coppens sent his boys down the runway at Milk Studios last night to a soundtrack of melodic acid house – a reference to his adolescent skateboarding adventures, the chief inspiration for his aw13 collection. Having launched his eponymous label in 2011 (he worked for Ralph Lauren after graduating from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp in 1998), Coppens is already gaining plaudits for his modern vision of masculinity – an aesthetic that was very much in evidence last night.

Minimalist parkas, shirting and sweaters featured voluminous sleeves; while the most spartan of details included padding and zippers reminiscent of 1990s skater gear. Sleek cardigans and knits were adorned with leather panels, while some shirts and pants featured elasticated cuffs – giving a sporty feel to both day and evening wear, the latter providing some of the stand out looks of the show. Dominated by black, white and grey, occasional pieces in navy and rich burgundy, as well as a monochrome static print, confidently elevated the palette, while backpacks and messenger bags in shrunken black lambskin were the last word in luxe.

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