RUNWAY: ANTHONY VACCARELLO'S SULTRY PUNK
"I wanted something very straight, very cool, very 60s to the 90s," said Anthony Vaccarello backstage after his runway show that was dark and sultry, brimming full of his signature design elements with a couple of new ones thrown in. The opening show for MADE fashion week, Vaccarello now manages to draw in big names from the fashion media including Suzy Menkes, Godfrey Deeny (Le Figaro) and super stylist Carlyn Cerf de Duzeele.
Anthony Vaccarello, the new prince of Parisian body-con, always includes mini skirts that are practically belts and bias cut dresses that open to reveal long thighs and collarbones. He blends cuts and shapes from sportswear and translates them into his sartorial vision by using high end materials, this season blocked panels of buffed, black leather and heavier wool on jackets and mohair on cowl necked jumpers. His silhouette is always tall and slim, often via cigarillo trousers, the attitude sexy via plunging, open necklines and dresses and skirts that reveal plenty of flesh.
The Belgian designer also takes care to accommodate the louche side to Parisian elegance by making sure everything has a low-slung waistline and pockets for hands to slip giving that laid-back, never over thought attitude that Parisian women love to exude. Whether they wake up early to achieve their ‘just rolled out of bed, threw this on and I’m still sexy’ look or have actually just rolled out of bed, thrown on an outfit and are still sexy (sometimes it’s incredibly hard to tell), Vaccarello is fast becoming a go-to guy for that kind of woman, once she’s ditched the jeans and wants to slink through the night in something more …expensive. This season Vaccarello added a touch of punk by adding outer zips and metal pieces sewn into the shoulder or cuff, a reference that will always be welcomed by his fans.
Photography by Tamara Savidi, Michelle Williams, Lyla Vander, and Leandro Justen/BFANYC.com