DARK CRYSTAL NERVOSA BY HEAVEN TANUDIREDJA
"Anna Wintour visited us in Milan and said, ‘maybe a happier topic next season?" says Bali born jewelry designer Heaven Tanundiredja with a small laugh. We’re standing in one of the main salons of Hotel Salomon de Rothschild where twelve clear domes placed on pillars are positioned symmetrically around the room. Inside the domes are twelve pieces of quite extraordinary jewelry design, entitled Pyromania, Trichotillomania, Delusional and Anorexia Nervosa. In short, the key phrase is mental disorder.
"I tried to take all the negativity and put it into something beautiful," says the 30 year old designer who lives in Belgium. Tiny hands and chairs reach out from wide neck pieces, a golden one is being worn by MADE founder, Jenné Lombardo today. Each of the pieces is made from crystal which Heaven paints with a powdery pigment in Japan. "Crystal is crystal," he says, "I like to paint them my own colors. We make the frame or base for each piece then add the ornaments like a painting." Vintage crystal, gold plating and brass are some of the materials involved.
Walking amongst the domes and peering into each is designer Dries Van Noten. Heaven worked on his women’s wear design team 2006 – 2007 and still lives in Antwerp. "I don’t like big cities," says Heaven, "Antwerp is empty and quiet, I lived in Paris but it was too much for me and I think I’d die in New York, I like the silence of Antwerp." A graduate of the Antwerp academy, Heaven Tanundiredja is the latest in a long line of fashion and design creatives to come from the Belgian city. One not just to watch but to marvel, as his jewelry is fascinating, curious and dark.
Photography by Leandro Justen/BFANYC.com