Early on the evening of September 7th, Alexandre Herchcovitch showed a Spring 14 collection that balanced lights and darks, explored through the airy fragility of smoky-eyed models and crescendos of strings and pianos.

Born in Sao Paulo, Herchcovitch has credited his cosmopolitan upbringing for supplying him with a global perspective on style. Still, the Brazilian designer’s viewpoint has always been uniquely his own. Since launching in 1994, his groundbreaking collections have included avant-garde takes on sequins, rubber and wild patterning. Last time around, he imagined women as flowers with designs that expanded from minimalistic ruffled petals of peplum to fantastical floral-printed veils.

But for this season, themes were less botanical. A series of black dresses were accented with thin, widely-spaced pinstripes; others featured feathery jackets with unfilled sleeves fluttering off the shoulders like angel wings; some were spiked with leather swaths and extraneous zippers. Herchcovitch’s colors were minimalist: black and white (including many zebra patterns, so the wild kingdom was not completely abandoned, after all) and a late burst of brilliant, metallic-sheened purple.

Photos by Andrew Boyle and Raymond Croft

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