Paris Fashion Week Recap
Men’s Fashion Week arrived in Paris for a long weekend of back-to-back, sought-after shows. Here I round-up the highlights of my top five favorite shows.
My first favorite for Paris fashion week was Haider Ackermann. *Looking at the collection, you might imagine you just came out of a time machine and landed in the 19th century. It was romantic and classic, and there were even a few girls amongst the boys. Layers upon layers are most definitely becoming this designer’s "thing," and it’s a charming trademark: a long and tall overall silhouette, with handsome overcoats bordering on regal robes. The color palette is completely "fall," with grays, navy and black shades. Stripes are this season’s subtle statements, especially in this collection under fantastic outerwear.
Thom Browne gave an interesting Fall/Winter 2014 collection for his menswear staging on Sunday night. The “nature more” setup of a forest glade and a bunch of forest animals were all tapered in grey fabrics. His models wore variations on tailored tweed raw edged suits. They too were swathed in shades of gray fabrics and patterns, with each one finished off with impressive animal-inspired headgear. So one model would wear a grey wool overcoat windowpane-patterned suit with a spirit animal baseball hat and an elephant structure on the top. Or a long dove gray jacket worn with both a pleated skirt and cuffed pants that would finish in a face-effacing mask with bunny ears — even the models’ faces were painted with leaf camouflage foliage.
Downtown Abbey was presented on day five of Paris fashion week at Agnés.B. The French designer sent an array of fiendish models down the runway in her latest collection, each wearing an array of ensembles, notably a luxurious quilted smoking jacket in maroon velvet and Oxford grey. Alongside expensive-looking three piece suits with silk cravats and shiny brogues, Agnés presented corduroy pantaloons, Victorian ankle boots and baker’s hats – common attire for the working man in the post-Edwardian era.
Juun.J gave an incredible collection all in leather from leather gloves to leather pants to leather shirts and jackets as well as leather shoes and accessories. The south Korean designer’s collection retained a refined sense of elegance with its bold shapes inspired by military jackets.
Finally Tillmann Lauterback‘s show was clean with straight-lines and minimalist cuts further highlighted by a rather toned-down color palette that included hues of grey, blue and brown. The looks were paired with sneakers with deconstructed suits and Japanese Kimono-inspired coats, resulting in a smart yet functional sportswear-inspired silhouette.
The Street Style about town was casual cool long wool pea coats paired with jeans and oxford shoes and some even wore trainers. Chunky knit scarfs men were loving with bold print pants and biker leather jackets were a favorite trend coveting the streets of Paris.
Photos by Hadar Pitchon