Runway Review: Peter Som FW14/15

According to astrology-obsessed Mr. Means, part of our rocking MADE family production team, “Mercury is in retrograde right now—that means communication gets frenzied and unresolved patterns emerge, demanding re-evaluation.” That may also be the perfect metaphor for Peter Som’s show this morning.

Som showed blurred digital prints that could be from another astrological plane: Imagine toned-down abstract shards of Gerhard Richter’s dragged paint effects floating in a fluid, silky black galaxy. Other prints echoed winter flowers in a post-nightclub haze, and candy-sized crystal embellishments were a nod to the stellar patterns that decorate the heavens above us when midnight falls. Though his show was full of frenzied ideas, it was also resolutely streamlined and wearable. Imagine if Catherine Deneuve’s innocent character in the movie “The Umbrellas of Cherbourg” did a re-evaluation of that movie’s classic 1960s closet—keeping the structured angular tunic shapes—but tossed in touches of urbane boyishness; unable to resist the odd slice of theatrical flapper ostrich. But the gentle slipstream of innocence still carried through, thanks to sweet girlish hair swept to the side in bobby clips; and Mod-era round-toed ankle boots. The color palette was a cleverly thought out mélange of tangerine, dove grey, ochre, navy, putty pink and the perfect black—reminiscent of the skies Mr. Means looks to for stars to give divine guidance.

Photography by Koury Angelo, Chris Swainston, Anthony Cabaero and Andrew Boyle

Follow Mary Fellowes on Twitter @maryfellowes

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