Runway Review: Cushnie et Ochs FW14/15

Imagine if a predatory female spy character—film noir through and through—was re-imagined in an impossible collaboration between Alfred Hitchcock and Stanley Kubrick, and you’ll get a sense of the Cushnie et Ochs show today; a riff on fierce female empowerment, enhanced by sharp Louboutin stilettos with cutaway panels in clear vinyl or chrome. Isn’t this only appropriate, given that the true definition of stiletto is actually a "knife or dagger with a long slender blade and needle-like point, primarily intended as a stabbing weapon"? Since the greatest Hollywood stars of years gone by have oft been swathed in luxe animal skins, this woman’s trophy prey appeared in stoles made of fox—cunning predators themselves.

Cutting through the cinema of it all was a theme we’ve seen at several other shows this week: cowgirl twist. This one in particular was courtesy of uber milliner Albertus Swanepoel’s simplified black felt Western hats, and swinging full skirts. The Kubrick 1960s space age vibe came through in dazzling white structured dresses, holographic black leather, and futuristic silver neck cuffs that could double as weapons themselves. Futurism aside, the main focus was impeccably executed glamorous eveningwear in satin, lace, brocade, leather, jersey, crepe and silk satin. Color-wise, black dominated, as only a film noir spy would don. But were this heroine to dress for the premiere of her flick, she would probably opt for the lime or turquoise cocktail offerings to bounce off the red carpet.

Photography by Andrew Boyle, Anthony Cabaero and Joe Marquez

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