Dark Fluffy Clouds at Patrik Ervell
The music at menswear designer Patrik Ervell’s show opened to The Orb’s “Little Fluffy Clouds,” a track where American vocalist Rickie Lee Jones recalls picturesque images from her Arizona childhood. A male interviewer asks: "What were the skies like when you were young?" She describes their beauty: “Purple sunsets…red and yellow on fire. You might still see them in the desert."
Appropriately, the character of the Ervell man-child today looked stuck somewhere in a formal urban/Arizona hinterland, and confused between his youth and imminent adulthood—a graduating geography student perhaps undecided on furthering his studies or going corporate. Shearling multi-paneled bomber jackets had abstract prints echoing fuzzy overhead midday skies in yellow and pale blue, and came in other variations of tailored flat navy or padded royal blue wool. His sports-infused wardrobe—relaxed pants with elasticated cuffs, hoods and various sweatshirts—often carried functional contrast-colored nylon pockets that might house a compass or camera to capture the infinite Arizona desert and the multi-hued heavens above it.
The colors of Lee Jones’ skies reappeared throughout: a quiet turquoise cable knit sweater, and accents of saffron—in socks and a nylon hooded anorak—hinted at those sunsets on fire. But as day turns to night, so did the clothes. An ivory shearling vest under a charcoal tailored suit felt resolutely fresh, as did the black round toe lace-ups with a slim, rubber platform sole.
The show closed with a handful of classic suits to Saint Etienne’s “Only Love Can Break Your Heart”—hinting, perhaps, that this guy’s fingers had been burned by those fires in the sky; had fallen out of love with wanderlust; and was returning to a sartorial urban homeland.
Photography by Andrew Boyle, Anthony Cabaero and Chris Swainston
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