Peruse the Presentations
Jonathan Simkhai’s MADE FW presentation looked like a garden party battlefield: on one side stood the pristine pastel Stepford wives and on the other were the white and black minimalistic athletic bad bitches. But even though the colors were opposite from each other the collection was a perfectly complete amalgamation of the Simkhai woman: strong, sexy, but demure where it counts. Pairing mesh and light leather with button up shirts, knee length dresses and skirts, the clothing—which also included a velvet matching skirt + shirt combo which is on our wish list—looked like fragmented glass panels and included the perfect spring bomber. Which leaves one thing clear…this spring bombers will be bomb.
First thing we thought at Koonhor’s presentation was “beekeepers,” and indeed some of the model’s crinkled horse-like manes were hidden under plastic beekeeper-style hats. The collection was strong, with loud graphic prints and statement pieces, including sweaters and skirts with sparkly space-like 1920s reminiscent tassels that paralleled the leather purses which boasted tassels as well. Particularly die-over worthy were the ankle-length denim trenches, not to mention the fact that the comfort-in-fashion trend is not over yet; all the models were wearing all white Nike Roshe’s, which makes us feel that much better about ditching our heels for the rest of the week.
Stepping into the presentation room for Isa Arfen’s SS15 collection was a transport into the fever dreams of Jean-Luc Godard, where the cool attitudes and vibrant colors of French new wave met the heat and danger of Miami Vice. Dresses made with pastel-colored metallic fasteners were paired with colossal hair bows and chunky sunglasses, while startlingly red, knee length raincoats were draped across models that lounged under the shade of tiny plastic palm trees. Each piece of Arfen’s clothing was a striking visual statement, a line of apparel that closely resembles the hues of a tropical rainforest, of which her raincoats would be a more than fitting accessory. Designers beware, a new queen of the jungle has arrived.
Zoe Jordan’s SS15 collection if nothing else proves that the designer should have been hired to costume every K-Pop music video in existence. It’s a series where the entire aesthetic can be summed up as ‘tinsel tennis court,’ with each model literally reflecting a sizeable amount of glittery bottoms paired with tightly knit tops. The angelic ensemble was accentuated by a variety of gear both space age retro and urban prep, from sparkle shorts to sunglasses that emitted cool on high frequency. Jordan has said that this collection is a "tribute to the grown-up tomboy in an urban environment," a theme that is quite present in a line that places equal emphasis on its structure and patterns as it does its presentation.
The panel that displayed Harbison’s SS15 show could have been an album cover for The White Stripes; an array of stark yet deliberate placements of red, white and black (plus a dash of mustard) with the precise amount of contrast. Simultaneously formal and accessible, it was a collection that hinged on every outfit’s accouterments, with bejeweled blazers and hyper-real floral accompaniments which made for the darkest spring collection we’ve seen. The pin-stripe suits were very Peter Sellers circa Being There, which made the soundtrack of Beyoncé’s “Drunk In Love” for a very interest combination, but hey the collection was as timeless as Sellers and queen Bey are.