Backstage Banter With Patrik Ervell
Patrik Ervell’s SS15 show was Instagram perfection. The irony of having a presentation cater to instant gratification–we’re guessing everyone got well above double-digit likes on their snaps from the show–is that the clothes are anything but fleeting. Ervell’s collection was made from fabrics built to last. We caught the designer post-show to hear about vinyl trench coats and the lab goggles adorning models’ necks in his own terms.
The show notes explain a bit of your inspiration of durability and fashion meant to last. But what were your cultural inspirations?
I was thinking about a lot of movies that featured interiors from the 70s and 80s, especially Michael Mann movies. There’s this one called Manhunter, I actually played a bit of the soundtrack as [everyone] was coming in. It’s sort of this high 80s really art aesthetic with venetian blinds and blue light coming through. I wanted it to have a bit of that feeling.
What about the fabrics? They look very industrial.
A lot of the fabrics used are coming from [an interiors world] as well. Those are fabrics that are meant to last 10 years which is a completely different mentality from something like fashion. This jacket will last for the next 20 years, it’s literally indestructible. It’s a tricky thing applying those kinds of really technical fabrics to garments like this. You have to have venting–obviously a rain coat is the best application of that. It’s a beautiful thing. Outerwear is where I can play the most and use new fabrics.
The music and clothes together set a Morrissey’s Manchester tone. Was there any inspiration from England?
I was just saying that there’s a bit of London hovering over this collection. But Manchester, I think, fits in with the music. I’ve played [Real Lies and Orchestral Maneuvers in the Dark] the past three shows, just snippets of their songs. This is the first time I’ve played a whole song and they gave it to me before it was released, which was nice of them. The set designers are also from London. I don’t know, I think London is really interesting again.
Do you think the science goggles you showed will take off as a street style accessory?
The goggle has a vague suggestion. I’m a fashion designer, you know? So it has the kind of feeling of wearable technology. It’s a gesture toward…Everyone has always thought, "Ew, the Google glass is so embarrassing and so stupid!" but I think they’re so cool! I would love to be walking around with a Google glass on. I love the way that looks.
Would you ever consider designing womenswear?
I do! I mean, I’ve done a few little looks here and there—and we still do—but it’s really resized menswear. So if we looked at [the polyurethane vented mac], the women’s would be slightly smaller and the sleeve would be [cropped]. It’s not like women’s fashion—there are no printed dresses, but we make women’s clothes.