Patrik Ervell's Sci-Fi Romance
With rayon and leather as the main fabrics in the FW15 collection, it’s clear that Patrik Ervell wants to be ready for rain or shine, and we’re about it, especially on days like this. Ervell presented his newest collection accompanied by a super ambienced mid-runway installation of plants and neon lights, making a statement from the get go. As the models began to make their entrance, the first thing that we noticed were the shoes; great chunky footwear that reminded us of Frankenstein’s monster, a feeling only enhanced by the sleek hoodies, jackets, and baggy pants that were so precisely worn they could have passed as laboratory apparel. Yet for every slick lycra windbreaker there was a match in pieces with warmer textures, like the denim jacket with a blue suede collar and camelhair coats with literal ‘pocket squares.’ It made for a collection that was calculated with the precision of any science project, but one that also featured some of the most modernist menswear we’ve seen this season. We spoke to Patrik about this collection and the ornate runway show in which it was presented.
What were some of the stimuli that inspired this collection?
I tried looking for a sweet spot where I can be sci-fi and futurist but at the same time be romantic and nostalgic. That was really the starting point. And for me I never find that in fashion, I find that in interiors and architecture.
Is that why the runway was filled with plants furniture-like boxes?
Yes that’s exactly why. I wrote in my show notes for both the clothes and the show ‘brutalism, brutalist architecture.’ It looks so dated, but at the same time it’s so over the top and sci fi, kind of high drama in a way. And I think that’s where I found the sweet spot I was looking for.
Do you think this was a natural evolution from your last collection or a different direction?
An evolution, absolutely. I think of my collections as being able to be put back to back and it would work as one giant collection. So I think it picks up right where the last one left off.
Is there a unifying factor to this collection?
I think the shoes certainly. But that feeds into the silhouettes, the sort of dropped shoulder, bottom-heavy silhouettes. I suppose the shoes would contribute to that. And the industrial fabrics.