Kimonos, Bumsters and More invade LCM SS16
Though many of us are still savoring some of the more fruitful designs to emerge out of recent designer’s Resort collections, the eyes of the fashion world have turned to London, where the LCM Fashion Week has just wrapped up. Showcasing the latest innovations in menswear, this year had numerous stand-outs, all of which were united under a prevalent theme of exploring male sexuality, striking out through fashion in ways that have never appeared on any catwalk. We rounded up our list of the must-see collections of the week– from the debut menswear collection from industry giant Coach to future acid-rain chic courtesy of KTZ.
In the wake of Rick Owens’ penis exhibit earlier this year, Sibling took a different approach to celebrate the male form. This week saw the much needed return of the ‘bumster,’ the infamous butt-crack revealing trouser designed by Alexander McQueen in the 90s and we couldn’t be happier. Another standout from the collection were the twinkling sequin football jerseys which would have been perfect for [Madonna]()’s backup dancers at her 2012 Superbowl performance. Sibling embraced male sexuality in a new, playful and sophisticated way – we only hope more guys will embrace the bumster.
If KTZ designer Marjan Pejoski is known for anything, it is his ability to shatter expectations. Where his previous FW15 womenswear collection was characterized by tribal patterns and leather, his Spring 16 Menswear collection traded leather for nylons and indigenous influence for visions of a plasticized future. The collection was eclectic to say the least, boasting sheer jacket and short combos which seemed the ideal shield from an acid-rain drenched cityscape a la Blade Runner, multi-color, cross-cut shirts and pants emblazoned with unique bar codes and serial numbers, and a finale of a backpacks accessorized with open parachute/butterfly wings, both patterned in mock corporate logos. It was a collection that overall proved to be frighteningly astute in depicting an all too near dystopia.
Sooner or later, Coach was going to dabble in menswear. We only wonder why it didn’t happen sooner. Their landmark collection was unafraid to experiment with bold colors and patterns – including psychedelic designs and tiger stripes – and the results were a brilliant mix of street meets luxury. The traditional silhouettes combined with glowing neon hues in a variety of prints were sharp, exciting and classic Coach. Their venture into menswear was long overdue but this collection proves it was well worth the wait.
What strikes one first and foremost from Craig Green’s new menswear collection is it’s vibrant palette, one that transforms the otherwise static pieces into ravishing new depths of scope. Upon closer inspection, what becomes truly ravishing is the complexity of Green’s layering, where new ties and tassels are discovered with each glance. Taking influence in the attire of kung fu, the whole collection comes off as something resembling ‘Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon realness,’ where the sashes and accouterments of kimonos and Nehru jackets are elevated to new heights of dynamism. What truly stole the show were the great boxes of fabric, where models became enormous colored banners, visible only through slight slits in front of the eyes and the chest. It was a collection where showmanship met minimalism somewhere in the middle, the outcome being truly inspired.
Unusual details and deconstructed shapes were key elements of Christopher Shannon‘s collection. His affinity for trinkets surfaced in some graphic knitted sweaters with lighters that said ‘DAMAGED’ and ‘NEEDY.’ Other pieces had whistles, keychains and other knickknacks sewn right onto them. Another show highlight was the bikini-tops worn as necklaces, which could be an additional contribution to the ongoing conversation on alternative portrayals of masculinity. While some pieces held a more serious tone, the overall mood of the show was lighthearted – something later emphasized by closing the show with Sisqo’s ‘The Thong Song.’
All photos courtesy of Style.com