An unadulterated pursuit of what Creative Director Alessandro Michele simply calls “beauty.”

Fashion

9.7.2017

5 Exquisite Femme Menswear Gucci Getups

For more than nine decades, Gucci has been an iconic and aesthetically non-conformist brand, with a talent for self-reinvention, supernatural beauty, and cult-favorite fashion photography.

A brief highlight reel tells the story of a brand willing to tweak tradition and play with people’s imaginations. Post WWII, Gucci dreamed up its now signature bamboo handled bag, an answer to wartime leather scarcity, and also because a wood-accented accessory is aesthetic. In the eighties, Gucci figured out how to do luxury X streetwear, plastering its GG signature logo over a wide buffet of tracksuits and shellsuits, which were worn by the kings and queens of hip hop of that era. The nineties saw the brand, steered by creative director Tom Ford, push boundaries in advertising, with hyper sexual campaigns that had critics blushing. How sexy is too sexy? people asked. More sex please, said Gucci.

In 2015, Alessandro Michele was appointed the new creative director of Gucci, and in the spirit of Gucci’s long history of invention and reinvention, he’s taken the brand into a gloriously bohemian and Rococo land where lavishness and performative aristocracy reign. With his eccentric rebranding, Gucci has trailblazed in a series of ultra femme menswear looks, which intimate the historical figure of “the dandy,” mixed with punk androgyny and ultra femme romanticism. The resultant Gucci tribe is a gender-expansive visual story rich in historical references to old English aristocracy, Renaissance luxury goods, and an unadulterated pursuit of what Alessandro Michele simply calls “beauty.”  

The Fall 2017 collection was Gucci’s first amalgamated mixed-gender show, meaning the men’s and women’s collections were put together on one catwalkthe logical conclusion to what have been two glorious years of Alessandro Michele sending gender fluid, ultra sensory-overloading looks down the runway, with ladies on the “menswear” catwalk, and vica versa. Femme menswear—donned by male and female models alike—has been his penchant, and ours two. Here, we’ve rounded up five of our favorite bow-bedecked, blousy, dandy, peacocking AF Gucci looks that have waltzed down the runway since Alessandro Michele took up the helm. School yourselves in what so extra truly means.  

Fall 2017The Fall 2017 collection consisted of a mixed male/female runway, but it was more like a cast-gender-to-the-wind runway. Model Alton Mason sparkled in blooming neckwear, and almost hysterically mixed prints. The embroidery, business vibes, and hyper-sensual texture contributed to the prevailing sense of the evening—that of having fallen down a rabbit hole where the cult of aesthetic is led by a G0d who knows no pronouns.

Spring 2017Michelle’s Spring 2017 menswear show foregrounded the sweet and rather romantic notion of traveling vis.a.vis fantasy—that is, traveling from one imaginary point to the next. In true Alessandro Michele fashion, the catwalk scrambled gender identity, historical reference, and regional influence, in a magpie cacophony of color and texture. This marriage of epaulets, seventies tux-silhouette, and a generous floral harkens back the the peacock revolution for menswear in the 60s and 70s. Sartorial gender-bending at its finest.

Fall 2016The Fall 2016 menswear show was all about remixing, with appearances of highbrow and lowbrow signifiers: Walter Benjamin meets Snoopy, Bespoke wear meets Hot Topic. Hi-lo isn’t by any means new in fashion (it’s pretty par for the course for any sort of even slightly disruptive brand to qualify as “postmodern”) but it feels distinctly like Gucci might be doing po-mo the best (no surprise there). Alessandro Michele’s postmodernism gestures towards the absence of a meta-narrative where gender is concerned: there’s no let’s queer menswear or let’s not do that: instead each model is their own rare bird.

Spring 2016Gucci’s Spring 2016 menswear show was all about pussy-bows. At the time, Vogue asked, “Is a granny’s pussy-bow blouse still a pussy-bow if a willowy teenage boy is wearing it?” Indeed it is. This was a show that reminded the audience that punk sensibility isn’t all about hard-edges, or hardness at all. Soft, femme punk, in the form of leather tattooed with flowers and dainty floral embroidered cardigans, is Punk For The New Age.

Fall 2015The Fall 2015 menswear show was Alessandro Michele’s first stunt as newly minted Creative Director, and it was certainly an entrance. He plunged us headfirst into his maximalist and carnivalesque world, where whispers of Fellini films, Marie Antoinette, and Mick Jagger had us in a stupor. This was the first time a Gucci “menswear” catwalk had seen a female model, and it was the beginning of an unspooling of the old Gucci, and an evolution into something new entirely.

Images via Vogue

Stay tuned to Milk for more androgynous fashion.

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