Beauty Oracle: Lyne Desnoyers

If designers are telling a story through the clothes they send down the runway, then the hair and makeup is the last chapter. Lyne Desnoyers, MAC Cosmetics executive director of makeup artistry, is a backstage beauty veteran who works with designers on completing their seasonal narrative, spanning the globe to create trends we’ll be mimicking months from now.

For fall 2012, Desmoyers anticipates the continuation of a strong metallic look from spring, but with a different treatment. Products include cream eyeshades with a metallic sheen that are extremely pigmented, super sophisticated and feature a light-reflecting shine.

“We’re seeing a huge return of very warm colors from chocolate down to auburns,” says Desnoyers. “We’re also using a lot of sculpting creams to do that, which is always a big backstage favorite. The overall idea is of a very sophisticated femininity but not so identifiable. It’s beauty that’s quite moody.”

According to Desnoyers, beauty trends tend to come from three directions. They may be product-driven, or can result from the mood the designers try to convey. But the hardest trend to pin point is simply what feels right at the moment.

“That’s a question I ask myself, even before I hear all of the stories,” she says. “What seems right now? I think, what did we do last season? What were prevalent colors and textures and then I work the story around that, whether I’m working in continuity or completely breaking from the season before, or expanding upon it.”

After the four main fashion week cities, Desnoyers and her team will cull together all of the looks to determine four of five overarching trends. While each city has its own personality and flair, certain commonalities do extend across all regions. New York saw a strong metallic eye last spring, while Milan was using it all over the body. Across the world, certain passé “rules” appear to be shifting as well.

“Beauty is a lot more democratic that what is used to be,” Desnoyers says. “We used to say, this is a spring look, this is a fall look. It was a way of defining what someone should and could only wear. Whereas now – you want to wear metallic? You should. More and more, especially in the last three seasons, it’s going back to something highly personalized."

Backstage beauty photo by Sonny Vandevelde from the Suno runway show at Milk Studios.

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