A Juicy Couture Comeback and More of The Best Couture Week Moments
Couture is the closest fashion comes to art, in which a designer’s wildest fantasies come to life. In 1964, French fashion icon Emmanuelle Khanh declared “Haute Couture is dead,” but from the looks of the fall 2016 couture collections that have been rolling out this past week, couture seems to be very much alive and well. Below, we roundup our favorite Instagrams from these shows so far so you can see for yourself.
Iris van Herpen
Inspired by tibetan zen culture, Iris Van Herpen’s fall 2016 couture collection is like a one-way ticket to Nirvana. According to Vogue, the starting point was “cymatics,” which “visualizes sound waves as evolving geometric patterns.” The result? Delicately pleated garments folded into extreme, geometric shapes—aptly accompanied by Japanese musician Kazuya Nagaya’s Zen bowl sound. And to this we say namaslay.
Otherwise known as the most anticipated show at couture week that never disappoints. For this season, Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel‘s head designer and creative director—and the veritable dictator of new-age couture—brought his storied atelier to the forefront, transforming The Grand Palais into the Chanel couture house.
As his models traipsed down the runway in mostly tweed getups with structured, almost hexagonal shoulders, the couture experts casually continued with their regular work in the background. Using this show to honor the people who really make his couture shows possible, Lagerfeld swapped out godson Hudson for the head designers from his atelier for his final bow.
Best known for making Rihanna‘s breathtaking yellow dress for 2015 Met Gala, Guo Pei goes all out once again with her overwhelming determination to redefine glamour. As is customary of the Chinese couturier, Pei apparently spent more than a year on some of the materials and embroideries—work that ultimately (and unsurprisingly) paid off.
After Raf Simons ditched Dior last October, questions abounded as to what would come of the fashion house. Loosely based on Dior’s 1947 “New Look” collection, this season swiss designers Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux—the designers holding it down at Dior until another creative director is appointed—went heavy on the petticoats and corsets, as well as voluminous shoulders and skirts with delicate silver and gold embroidery. Which left us wondering why they need to find a new creative director at all.
Donatella keeps it classy this season by simply letting the fabric do the talking—or should we say, the draping—on beautiful hourglass silhouettes. The collection ranges between intricately layered and cut out dresses and coats that seemed to move effortlessly and languidly with the body. If the collection was a dream, then we have no intention of coming back.
This may have been Vetements’ first couture show, but head designer Demna Gvasalia created mind-blowing looks as usual. What wasn’t usual is the number of collaborations that went into making this collection, which included throwback brands like Juicy Couture, Levi’s, Dr. Martens, Manolo Blahnik, Hanes, Champion, Carhartt, and Church’s (among many others).
Bertrand Guyon, Schiaparelli‘s newly appointed creative director—who, according to Vogue, has been struggling to live up to the legendary fashion house’s name—decided to use Schiaparelli’s summer 1938 circus show as inspiration for the fall 2016 couture collection. There were kaleidoscopic prints, embroidered circus animals, and avant-garde silhouettes featuring surrealist faces.
Oversized coats, copious layers, color blocking, and complex folds that made the models look slightly mangled were just a smidgen of the goodies that Galliano presented to us today for Margiela‘s fall 2016 couture collection. Add to that the stunned, deer-in-headlights faces of the models, and this was one for the books.
Image via Virginie Khateeb.
Stay tuned to Milk for more couture coverage.