About Face: Andriy Volkoff
We may be in the midst of the longest au natural makeup trend since minimalism first took hold of millennials en masse circa 2010, but don’t be fooled: the glitter lives on, contouring still slays, and the maximalist, color-happy movement that’s taking hold of fashion is soon to make its mark on the shelves of Sephora, too. Take it from certified beauty kween Andriy Volkov: with a mere three looks, he shoots from a Dior-inspired, glitter-for-days face, to a real life glow-up bronze goddess, to an inked (and lip-lined AF) snake charmer experimentation. The result? It’s lit. Peep all three looks below.
️♠🃏 F/W ’09🃏 ♠
The first look I created was heavily inspired by the makeup designed by Pat McGrath for Dior during the John Galliano era. The goal for this look was to glam up the iconic look of the 2000s Dior by adding some glitter and sparkle. For this look I started off by cleansing the skin and then prepping it with SK-II Facial Treatment Essence and the Dior Jelly Sleeping Mask to hydrate the skin. I then blocked out my brows using an Elmer’s Glue stick and set them with Ben Nye Neutral set and did a few layer of a heavy concealer. After finishing the brows I went in with a mixture of two primers, the Urban Decay Self-Adjusting Complexion primer to help fill in any fine lines and acne scars, and the Burberry Fresh Glow – Luminous Fluid Base to add some life and luminosity. I used my hands to apply the primers. For foundation I used a beautyblender and applied a generous amount of the Maybeline Pro-Glow foundation in shade 203 followed by the Vichy Dermafinish concealer in shade 25 to conceal any zits or hyper-pigmentation. The under eyes were primed with the smashbox hydrating under eye primer to avoid any dry or flaky skin which can happen with heavy makeup. I then used the lightest shade of the L.A. Girl concealer in shade Porcelain under my eyes, sides of and bridge of the nose to start the contouring process, cheekbones, chin, and center of forehead blending it with a beautyblender. I set the all the cream products with a thin layer of Ben Nye’s neutral set and then started baking the same areas where I applied concealer, making sure to apply extra under the eyes to catch any eyeshadow fallout.
I started by marking my new crease since I have hooded eyelids and not much space to work on. Using three cream colors from the Make Up For Ever Flash Palette I created a base for the eyeshadow. Cream base helps intensify the colors and is also much easier to blend for me. Above the new crease I used red on the outer portion of the eye blended into the center and inner portion blended up and towards the nose. Then I added gold in the center and blended upwards. For the eyeshadows I used a Morphe blending brush to apply the orange color from the Morphe 35W Palette and blended it into the outer portion of the crease. The key is to start slow and go very lightly and then build up and pack on more product with a smaller blending brush. Then I used a pink shadow from the same palette on the inner part and the Pat McGrath Skin Fetish Powder Highlighter 003 over the gold cream. Using a smaller blending brush I intensified the crease first with NYX eyeshadow in Skinny Dip and then with an even smaller brush a mixture of darker purple tones from the Morphe palette. I also added these shadows to the inner corner. For the bottom lid I used the same purple shadows on the outer and inner corners. Then using a flat synthetic brush I cut my crease and filled in my eyelid with the green shade from the MUFE Flash Palette. On top of the cream I applied a Sugarpill Loose Pigment in the shade Clickbait. On top of the pigment I packed on Ben Nye Sparklers Glitter in Gold Prism. The same process was repeated on the little space right under the pupil. I finished off the eye by using a little bit of the gold cream and the Pat McGrath eyeshadow packed on top in the inner corner.
I finished the face by contouring the cheekbones, jawline, sides and top of the forehead and the nose using 2 shades from the Smashbox Step-by-Step Contour Kit. For highlight I first applied Mac Strobe Cream in Goldlite to the tops of my cheeks, the top of my cupids bow, the bridge of my nose, and a little dot on the tip of my nose. On top, I applied the Pat McGrath Skin Fetish to intensify the glow. For the lips I used a small angled brush and an Urban Decay Metallized Lipstick in the shade conspiracy and applied it to my top lip and the inner part of my bottom lip. To tie the whole look together I finished off the lip with a little bit of Skin Fetish 003 in the center of the lip. The eyelashes used were from NYX Wicked Lashed #WL19 and the glue was the regular Duo Glue. I styled my hair using leave-in conditioner and some party store gold spray.
🌕🚶Bronzy Glowy Versace™ Princess🚶🌕
For my second look I decided to go with a glowing very tan drag face. The original inspiration came from Versace’s ads in 2014 with models having very tan skin and very straight light blonde hair (e.g. Lady Gaga in the S/S ’14 ad). I started off by blocking out my eyebrows the same way as the in the first look. As always I prepped the skin using the SK-II facial essence followed by the Sunday Riley U.F.O. oil to add extra luminosity and help combat breakouts. On top I added some simple moisturizer from lush. To prime the skin I used a mixture of Urban Decay’s Self-Adjusting Complexion Primer and a large amount of Tarte’s Brighter Days Highlighting Moisturizer. I also used the Smashbox Hydrating Undereye Primer under my eyes, on my lids, nose, and lips to add extra hydration. Using the trusty beauty blender I blended everything into my skin.
For foundation for this look, I went in with Maybeline’s Pro-Glow in 203 and Vichy Dermafinish in shade 25 for concealer. I then applied Mac’s Strobe Cream to the tops of my cheekbones, nose bridge, the top of my lip, and by the temples above my eyebrows to add extra luminosity. Then, I concealed/highlighted the same as in the previous look using L.A. Girl’s Concealer in Porcelain. I set the whole face very lightly using Ben Nye’s Neutral set and concentrated the majority of the powder on the sides of the nose, forehead, and chin avoiding the cheekbones and the bridge of the nose to preserve the luminosity. In order to warm up the face I slowly built up the color using the L’Oreal True Match Powder in Cappuccino, first applying it where I would apply my contour, then all over the face, and then on top of the contour again. I then added a little bit of the cooler shade from the Smashbox Step-by-Step kit into outer and center parts of the contour.
For my eyes I first went in with a nude lip pencil from Rimmel London to mark out my crease. Using the Morphe 35W palette I started with a bigger blending brush and a transition shade above my new crese. I then went in with a few darker shades and gradated the brushes accordingly as i went in closer to the new crease in order to add depth. For all over the eyelid I used a coppery, golden shimmer shadow from the same palette and applied using my finger in order to warm up the product and pack it on. I then did my eyeliner and winged it out at a quite low angle in order to elongate the eye and give a more sexy look. A good trick for eyeliner for hooded eyes that I learnt in a YouTube video by Miss Fame is to apply the liner close to your lash line, then open your eye and let the liner make a mark on your eyelid. That mark for me is usually right at my natural creasy and it serves as the guideline as to how far to take my liner, which usually is pretty much my whole natural eyelid. The bottom lash line was created by using NYX Jumbo Pencil in milk for the waterline, in Baby Blue for the inner corner, and the blue shade from the MUFE Flash Palette on the outer corner. I then used Sugarpill eyeshadow in Velocity on the outer corner blending downwards and toward the center. I then layered some dollar store glitter liner over the Sugarpill shadow. To finish off the eye, I used NYX Wycked Lashes #WL22 on top and Ardell individual lashes for the botto. I placed the longer individual lashes towards the outer corner and the shorter ones in the inner part to further intensify the shape of the eye. I used little tweezers and some Duo lash glue to do that.
To finish off the look I did a nude lip using Rimmel London’s Exaggerate Lip Pencil in the shade innocent to overdraw the lip going for a poutier sexier shape and to fill in the rest. I then added a little bit of the NYX Matte Lip Liner in the shade Sandstorm to the outer corners and a little bit around the perimeters of the lip to further intensify the illusion. In the center of the lid i popped a little bit of OCC’s Lip Tar in the shade Interlace. I highlighted the tops of the cheekbones, the bridge of the nose, and the inner corners using the Wet’n’Wild Megaglo Highlighting Powder in Crown of My Canopy and the Pat McGrath Skin Fetish in 003. To tie the look together a popped on a light blonde wig, light blue dress, and a reflective blue choker.
The third look I created was kind of a more free flowing experimentation. From the beginning, I knew that I wanted to employ some of my masculine features, perhaps do something a little darker and more disheveled. I started off by doing creating a lip inspired by Kelseyanna Fitzpatrick (@kelseyannaf). I wanted to attempt to achieve that beautiful dark and eerie vibe with my makeup. First I used the Urban Decay Cream Lipstick in the shade venom and a Morphe blending brush around the perimeters of my mouth to create the pinking halo effect. I then went in with a smaller lip brush layered the color closer to the outline of my lip blending it with the bigger brush. I went back and forth until i was satisfied. Then I went in with a synthetic flat packer brush and used the end of it to outline my lips with the NYX eyeshadow in Skinny Dip blending that out with the small lip brush. Lastly, to sharpen up the lines I outline my lips with a very well sharpened NYX Matte Lip Pencil in Cherry Skies. For the inner portion of the lip I used OCC Lip Tar in Interlace on a clean lip brush making sure to avoid the outline. Then layered excessive amounts of Carmex on the inner part.
The idea for the eyes was pretty much to mimic the lips and create monotony but I changed up a few things for the sake of wearability since this look would be the easiest to recreate and wear out. In order to somewhat prevent the eyeshadow from creasing excessively but still achieve the shiny lid effect I used Maybeline’s Face Studio Master Strobing Stick in the shade Light Iridescent and the Smashbox L.A. Lights Blendable Lip & Cheek Color in the shade Shimmer Finish all over the lid. Then I followed pretty much the same steps as the lid but outlining the eye and skipping the NYX lip pencil. Instead, I used the lip pencil in my waterline.
This time I did the foundation second so I made sure to be careful around the blended shadow and lip. I first primed using the Benefit Cosmetics Porefessional in my T-zone and over any acne scars, followed by a mix of the Burberry Fresh Glow – Luminous Fluid Base and the Tarte Brighter Days Highlighting Moisturizer all over the face. The foundation I went with for this look is my regular everyday foundation which is the Dior Airflash in the shade 201 Linen. This foundation has pretty natural finish which I thought would balance out well with the shiny lips and eyes. I lightly set the face with the same old Ben Nye Neutral set and then contoured using the warmer and the cooler shades from the Smashbox Step-by-Step contour kit. For the highlight I went with pinker tones and layered the Laura Mercier Face Illuminator in the shade Devotion and the Pat McGrath skin fetish in 001. For the eyebrows, I wanted a more messy masculine look so I brushed them upwards and kind of in a zig-zag motion with layers of the NYX Control Freak Eyebrow Gel and the Maybelline Brow Precise Fiber Volumizer Brow Mascara in the shade Deep Brown to darken and thicken my eyebrows. I also brushed them through between the layers using a clean spooly from Morphe. Using a very thin brush liquid eyeliner, NYX’s Collection Noir Liquid Black Liner, and slapped on some fake tattoos. A little cors under the eye, a cobweb by the temple, and a snake on my chin. I really wanted to try this and so I didn’t mind the slight messiness since this was my first time doing something so precise.
To finish off the look I threw on a mesh crop top I made in High School, a spiked choker, a harness from Search & Destroy, and a clip on bang I inherited from my ex roommate. I tousled up my natural hair around the bang to roughen up the look.
Featured image courtesy of Silvia Cincotta; other images courtesy of Andriy Volkoff
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