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Assembly New York Got Moody AF

With “All Tomorrow’s Parties” pouring through the speakers, lush fabrics all around, and soft lighting aglow, Assembly New York’s Fall 2017 presentation at the Soho Grand Hotel last night screamed one thing: mood. Like the collection itself, the vibe was casual yet exclusive with models posted on velvet couches, throwing the whole “don’t stand on the furniture” thing out the window. But Assembly’s never been one to follow the rules. Each model wore patent loafers with safety pin detail, diamond bindis and strong middle parts, setting the tone of both the collection and the room with their hazy expressions and bored stances. The first half of the collection seemed like classic Assembly, with New York-printed sweats, sporty jackets and sharp trousers, but a hooded plastic jacket layered with a crimson off-the-shoulder top and matching pants foreshadowed what was to come. A timely wardrobe change revealed yet another political stand for NYFW, with several models wearing mouth coverings. Camo printed trousers sat front and center. Paired with the bindis, it felt like a call for conversation. Other not-so-quiet standout looks included a stunning red duster coat, its shoulders wrapped in a piece of black tulle, and a sweatshirt with fur detail. Overall, Assembly layered fabrics, message, and mood, revealing a collection that’s anything but silent.

Images shot exclusively for Milk by Mike Millette

Stay tuned to Milk for more not-so-subtle political nuances on the runway.

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