At Prada, The Women Wear The Pants
In Miuccia Prada’s world, the women wear the pants. And not only do they wear the pants, but they redefine what it means to “wear the pants” too. For her Fall/Winter ’16 collection, which showed at Milan Fashion Week yesterday, the women don’t so much wear the pants as they wear the argyle tights, in lieu of pants. But don’t get it twisted—argyle tights are the “pants” in this particular scenario, and they have the last word (and the remote).
If the boys in Prada’s Fall/Winter ’16 menswear show were navigating the world today, then the girls in this show look like what might happen when those boys get played. Some stuff spilled over from the men’s show—the sailor hats, Christophe Chemin’s prints, the men’s belts, the cape motif, some of the women’s bags, and the argyle tights. It was as if, after seducing the boys, these girls decided to take them hostage for a bit, ransack their wardrobe, and then walk out with enviable souvenirs (and no pants). And the outfits that emerged would make some grandmothers hoot and holler with outrage.
At times, the girls’ outfits looked as if they were specifically styled to piss off early 20th century fathers everywhere. Oh, you want me to wear my best cocktail dress for the soiree? She seemed to say. Jacquard ’40s style cocktail dress it is. You don’t mind the garter belt I’ve haphazardly and lazily tied over it, the contrasting argyle tights, and the construction boots, do you? Didn’t think so. And that salacious diary I’ve been keeping? Yeah, that’s now locked to my necklace—and I swallowed the key. I call it, Lady Sybil ‘bout to start a quibble.
You can always count on Miuccia to make a profound statement—and one that you’ll be brooding over until her next one. Apparently backstage at her show this week, she mentioned “vagabonds” and women “dressed…for an adventure.” Audacious women ready for, essentially anything. Ahoy.
Photography by Sonny Vandevelde.
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