Barragán is the Black Sheep of NYFW [NYFW]
A large influence of Victor Barragán’s and part of his mission as a designer is his commitment to questioning the value and role of the fashion industry and how we as consumers implement it into our lives. Barragán’s presentation of his newest collection at NYFW was no exception. The collection itself lent itself to be defined as experimental; an experimental line of minimal pieces using minimal fabric allotting for a lot of skin. In a sexual way? Not necessarily. In a way that took your mind, flipped it and then reversed it? Definitely.
Firstly, the lineup of models for this presentation was unlike any other this NYFW. The incorporation and inclusion of all ages, genders and races, combined with zero notoriety or known status of who these models are, was an unexpected, refreshing industry wild card pushing viewers to look beyond just who is in the garments and actually examine the garments themselves. Secondly, every garment had a distinct purpose both in design and styling which upon the initial glance, evoked a personal sense of taste. Do I like what I’m seeing or? Do I even understand what I am seeing? Until the finale, as the entire collection was presented for one last moment, it clicked. You could sense that the value of this presentation finally hit it’s mark and perfect timing at that.
The most important understanding to have surrounding Barragán’s presentation, is that it’s a study. It’s a study on trends and the fabric production and consumption it takes to fuel them. About how yes, the print and colors and overall look at the fabric and palate that was chosen, are pretty ugly but in retrospect, the weren’t ugly ten years ago and the fabric still exists somewhere. This minimalist meets conservation-esque mindset is genius. It’s an exposé geared towards our not so keen observations as consumers on production costs of clothing versus the price-point we purchase them at, shaming our needs and addiction to brief vanity. The total package of this show is complex and a lot to take in, but Victor Barragán succeeds with it. He succeeds in pushing a room to think beyond the industry and its figures, and actually engage in conversation or thought beyond the runway. And he succeeds in being a pioneer for making NYFW a bit more woke.
Images via TDB
Stay tuned for more NYFW coverage.