Devon Halfnight Leflufy's Dirty Warehouse Rave
A lot of clothes are made with the intention of going out to party, but it’s the rare garment that has an actual party on the clothes. Photographs of a dirty warehouse rave were easily one of the more interesting prints of the season, but it’s exactly what we’ve come to expect from designer Devon Halfnight Leflufy.
Aside from having one of the greatest birth names in history, Leflufy’s established himself during his previous collection at MADE Fashion Week as a designer capable of bringing together elements of grunge, drug, and futuristic punk cultures to vivid, visceral life. For this season, Leflufy got amped up even further; officially titled METARLX, it was a collection that warped the designer’s nostalgia for the skater/rave scene of the 90’s with his visions of a cybernetic future, and for the first time, introduced womenswear into his aesthetic.
The results were pieces that were a constant combination of objects both familiar and exotic. Purple sweatpants were paired with white leather trench coats straight out of The Matrix, 70’s collared zip-up shirts and frayed denim pants were paraded beside leather tops held together with giant safety pins. The only unifying factor seemed to be that all these outfits were possible attire for a fierce ass hitman, one who probably dropped some ecstasy before coming to kill you. Despite our fear, we were obsessed.
We chatted with Devon during his presentation to discuss the incredibly meta inspirations of nostalgia behind his new collection:
So tell me some of the things you thought about while making this collection.
Of course I started with my core design practice, which is using nostalgia as a tool for the future. It’s an emotion I feel very strongly. That’s always there. The other thing I was thinking about was how it’s common practice now in culture to make references without the reference, in a way. A lot of the time people will use pictures from artists without knowing who the artist is or who influenced that artist. So without that backstory and all that information the reference becomes empty and I think that practice is very common and it’s creating this medicated approach to youth culture. All of these kids constantly reference these pictures on social media and they become devoid of meaning so I wanted to see how I could articulate that with clothes as not so much visually but also emotionally.
Hmm wow. You put into words so many things that are stressing me out.
Yeah it’s very frustrating and that’s why I like to work on a topic like that. I’m sure it’s not going to sell or anything, but it’s true and we should think about it.
Your last collection’s presentation was exclusively menswear. Is womenswear a new frontier for you?
I did a womenswear collection when I was younger, so in terms of technical aspects I was prepared. It was interesting to decide because, of course, the image of the man was established in a way. It was getting established. To find the female counterpart for that aesthetic was interesting and it’s something I’m still working on. I want to see what I want my woman to really be like. I think it’s just the female version of my man, but how to articulate that is an entirely different story.
Well who is the Leflufy man? Is he real?
I haven’t met him yet but it’s someone. They are extremely well cultured and rough in a way. He doesn’t mind breaking his nose skateboarding even though he has to go to his office job. It’s someone who is really interested in being empowered by their clothes. There are ideas behind the clothes but they aren’t in your face like other designers. They are very loud about their opinions. I think most of my customers feel there is an empowerment here. Leather is very empowering for instance, when I wear a leather jacket I feel like a different person.
Was there anything you found particularly challenging or new with this collection?
We’re slowly venturing more and more into tailoring. It’s not like your conventional tailoring but with blazers and trenchcoats we are doing them in our own way. So that’s newish. I like to approach a garment that you don’t wear yourself. It’s interesting.
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