Etienne Deroeux’s Trans-Atlantic Sportswear [NYFW]
Walking into Etienne Deroeux’s presentation at MADE New York was like entering a soothing French oasis, where one might delicately sip something with lillet and smoke one of those skinny cigarettes that seem like they don’t give you cancer. The air conditioning was mercifully on full blast, and there was a pleasing sense of calm in the air, a vibe that surely originated with the clothes. Deroeux is a Frenchman, but he traffics in the sort of American sportswear that could do Ralph Lipschitz proud, albeit with a stylish edge.
The looks were imminently wearable, with details that are currently on trend but won’t wear out by next season. Slips were worn over light sweaters with cutouts at the neck, and a neutral color palette was broken up with subtle metallics. The silhouettes were simple, flattering, and occasionally surprising—look closely for well-placed straps and loops. “My focus is really on daywear, leisurewear, sportswear, which is really part of American culture,” said Deroeux. “I always felt that there’s a bridge that needs to be built as a brand between [New York and Paris.]” This may just be it.
It’s in the Details…
The models all rocked glossy eyes, a trend that I pray is here to stay. Simple, clean, fresh, and easy.
At one point, I heard the strains of Gil Scott-Heron’s “The Revolution Will Not Be Televised,” which felt a little incongruous until I spoke to Deroeux. “Our generation is looking into building what may be a better world,” he said. “And genders, borders, everything is becoming more fluid [with] people my age.”
Milk favorite Dayna Christison rocked the show, wearing a blue tarp-like slip dress.
Adding to our Shopping Lists…
A cropped denim jacket could work for almost every season, and I could have snapped up any and all of the knits.
The Look That Gave Us Life…
White wide-legged pants with front pleats were heavenly; they incorporated an off-kilter loop at the waist, and looked about as soft as clouds. They were paired with a white asymmetrical crop top, worn over a black long-sleeved top with thumb holes.
Photos taken by Andrew Boyle
Gifs by Bonnie Wang
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