Fall In Love With J.W. Anderson's Ruffled Paradise
The droves of designers without professional training can be frustrating—yet it can also be equally as gratifying when you consider someone like Jonathan Anderson. Our London Fashion Week coverage would not be complete without him; he’s constantly lauded as an unparalleled force in the fashion industry, might be the most highly anticipated designer to show during LFW, and it’s perhaps because he has no professional training that he’s been able to widen the scope of possibility and imagination in fashion.
For his Fall/Winter ’16 collection, he played with ruffles in myriad ways. Sometimes they were subtle, as if a couple threads in the garment had pulled in a proportional pattern that was purely coincidental. Other times they were poofy skirts that looked fit for a flamenco dancer, or trimmed on skirts in a striped pattern that recalled Ostwald Helgason’s Resort ’14 collection, and that were so structured they could’ve been mired in Elmer’s Glue. And then there were the ruffled pants that looked like a close cousin to Elizabethan breeches and made me want to murmur “forsooth” over and over.
Anderson beefed up his archive of hard-to-hang-and-even-harder-to-put-on garments—one of his specialties. It looked almost as if the ruffles had morphed into exceptionally complicated folding in a handful of cute skirts and sweaters—with straight jacket appeal. He also offered up some padded leather sweaters with rose embroidery that gave the models a kind of stiff, lifted-weights-for-the-first-time-yesterday, C-P3O kind of look. Another highlight was a noteworthy fur hoodie that looked like something P. Diddy and J. Lo might wear to the club back in 2001, on twinsies night.
And finally, the studs. They adorned pink leather moto pants for the motorcycle averse, a ginormous belt, and pintuck shirts. The latter recalled chainmail, as if the J.W. Anderson girl was suited up and ready for battle, albeit a slightly juvenile battle. A battle of the bands, perhaps.
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Photography by Sonny Vandevelde.