Helmut Lang Delivers a Queer Chasm of Kink [NYFW]
Shayne Oliver, the visionary and designer of Hood By Air, brought Helmut Lang back to its roots this NYFW by presenting a collection that reissues a few iconic staples traced back to Lang’s OG collection and implementing his own unique technique and understanding of design. Helmut Lang’s legacy lies in his iconic, now modernly and referentially embraced, creations of unisex garments that are fueled by different levels of fetish; a truly perfect equation for Shayne Oliver to give us everything and more.
The collection itself is without a doubt kinky and not trying to be anything else. The use of BDSM harnesses, angular and revealing bras, as well as open in the back trousers made the runway feel dangerous and intimately intriguing at the same time. The models, a unique blends of age, color and gender, are all treated with the same signature Lang aesthetic of less is more, which one could label as minimalism but even that would reduce how loudly these looks present themselves. Shayne Oliver’s largest presence shines through the pieces that are bold in color and intricately constructed like his epic cotton candy pink parka and metallic orange dress and suit.
The one word I firmly suggest encapsulates this entire collection is: queer. The fluidity of presence and deeper evoking quality of these designs and models curate a bold chasm of expression that develops individual reaction and further insight into one’s preference. This show has created a safe space to include risky and tangible kink without being labeled with any negative connotation or shame; an absolute feat in itself to be inspired by sexuality and fearlessly express a modern queerness. When announced that Shayne Oliver would be leading the newest era of Helmut Lang, hungry anticipation and conversation promoted a hype for something iconic. If using open purses as oversized bras isn’t that, I don’t know what is.
Images via Vogue
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