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Luar: New (& much Improved), And About to be Very big [NYFW]

Nowadays, with designers presenting a new collection practically every week, it’s a wonder they’re able to get in a minute’s worth of shut eye, let alone maintain a semblance of quality in their clothes. Far more impressive would be to scale back a bit for the sake of well-crafted garments. And while some designers might not heed this advice, Raul Lopez is one who would—and did. The founder and head designer of Luar (formerly known as Luar Zepol), Lopez is taking his time with his designs. “I kind of felt like a caterpillar,” Lopez told us after the show. “[I had kept myself] in this cocoon, so after two seasons, I truly find myself, kind of like a butterfly…I just needed that little hiatus so I can come back and just eat it up.”

And as he proved today at his MADE New York show, held at The Standard High Line, taking some time off has paid off in spades.

It’s in the Details…

In the past, Lopez has been known for delivering distinctly futuristic designs—and today, that same motif found its way in the collection, particularly a belt onto which an iphone clips in perfectly.

A Walk-Off…

The models at the Luar show today were sporting impeccable makeup—some of them with fake tears dripping down their cheeks—and walked down the runway with the combined energy of 700 average, stick-thin models. This wasn’t voguing per se, but it was teeming with traces of it—the models stalking up and down the runway, and then back again, with a bounce in each step.

Adding to Our Shopping Lists…

While everything left us staring, there were a pair of pants that particularly caught our eye. Baggy, with an exaggerated flare, on which there were seemingly randomly (but surely strategically) placed zippers. The pants resembled a pared-down Hood by Air piece—which makes sense, given that Lopez used to work for the brand.

Daddy Knows Best…

Plastered onto a couple white shirts and hoodies was a graphic of a futuristically distorted face, if you feel us. Lopez told us it was part of a collaboration with Leather Zaddy, and we approve.

The Takeaway…

There were Edwardian accents—ruffled collars and cuffs—garments that were scrunched into a tight pleating, seatbelt style belts, shirts from which nylon hoods and exaggeratedly flared cuffs sprung, oversized cargo-looking pockets flapping about on coats, and a slew of layered garments with offbeat and avant-garde details. As Lopez told us after the show, what the new Luar has that the former Luar Zepol didn’t is “glam,” and we couldn’t agree more.

Photos by Andrew Boyle.

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