At Collina Strada, It's All About Blurred Lines
At the Collina Strada presentation at MADE Fashion Week, models shuffled their feet on shards of glass—and then ate them. As we later found out, the glass was actually crystalized sugar, but it was still a bold move, and certainly set the tone. Marking designer Hillary Taymour’s fourth ready-to-wear collection, her direction for Fall/Winter ’16 felt more evolved and like more of a statement—in both a personal sense, showcasing her development as a designer, and in a larger social sense.
The collection felt like a wardrobe of tightly edited basics, punctuated with a few statement pieces for days when you’re feeling sassy. Flared denim was paired with gauzy t-shirts and topped with cozy shearling jackets, and leather separates were shown together in black and in silver—because if you’re going for leather, it might as well be all or nothing. As with previous seasons, Taymour worked in primarily sustainable fabrics, even hand treating several pieces to achieve a crinkled affect. And in keeping with her minimal aesthetic, hardware was rare, save for a few strategically placed grommets.
For Taymour, this season was primarily about blurring the lines between genders, which was demonstrated not only by the clothing but also by the models, a striking mix of individuals whose only similarities seemed to be their chiseled cheekbones. The foundations of the collections were pieces that can be worn by anyone, at anytime. As the state of fashion continues to be in flux, Collina Strada seems firmly planted in the future.
Where did you start with this collection?
This season I was really creating based off my own uniform, what I’ve been wearing. Some of the linen pieces were based off a favorite t-shirt that I bought in China, things like that. This is the most “me” I’ve put into a collection, which is really cool and also a bit scary.
Yeah definitely, it’s so personal. I know you’re really conscious of the fabrics you use, does that present any challenges?
Yeah definitely, it can make things harder sometimes. But it’s worth it. Even this season, we custom-crinkled the linen to get the effect we wanted.
And what is your process, designing each collection?
After a season, I’m always pumped up and then going back to the drawing board can be a bit hard, so I try to give myself a bit of time. But once I get started again, it really just flows from there.
I’m obsessed with the shoes, they’re amazing! What was the inspiration behind them?
The stylist, Britt McCamey, wanted to do cowboy boots, and I was kind of thinking slippers, so we just combined them.
How are you going to celebrate now?
Now I have to get ready for Paris for sales! But I’m going to take one day off, Valentine’s Day.
What’s your perfect day off plan?
Sunday, in my bed with my dog. And maybe a boy.
Check out this epic GIF from the show here.