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1/29 — Grand Pigalle



Milk.xyz Travel Diary: Mathias Rosenzweig in Paris

I took my recent trip to Paris as an opportunity to try out la crème de la crème in terms of hospitality and food. From the complete gem Hôtel Particulier Montmartre in the north to festive spots in the buzzing Marais, these hubs delivered far beyond my imagination. See below for a full guide for where to stay (and maybe have a quick bite) throughout the city. 

I started my trip off at the Grand Pigalle in a room that overflowed with light. It was a major relief to arrive there after hours of travel (I got stuck in Portugal for a hot second, but that’s neither here nor there), with a wine bar and restaurant surrounding the modest reception area. The hotel’s site describes the 37-room establishment as “rich, cultivated, comfortable, and casual,” which sum the place up beautifully. There’s a thriving sense of modernity in terms of décor and furniture, which is a nice compliment to avenue Frochot’s old-timey, Parisian feel.

Hôtel de Jobo, located in the ever-so-lively Marais, seems to give each room (or “love nest,” as they call them) a specific feel and character. Our walls were completely covered in cheetah print, aligning it with the kitschy and energetic neighborhood surrounding us. Reception was extremely accommodating and had great taste in nearby restaurants, bars, etc., which is key in the Marais as it’s abundant with different establishments. The hotel also hosts a bar wherein patrons can rent the place out for private events when its not otherwise open to the public.

Montmartre has long been my favorite neighborhood in Paris, a preference that was fully cemented by my stay at Hôtel Particulier Montmartre. The entire hotel only contains five suites, which allows for them to heavily invest in the beauty and comfort of each room. With a restaurant and bar, all nestled within a thriving garden (perused daily by the two chickens who live there), the hotel is reminiscent of olden times when (aristocratic) travelers would spend their entire day on the hotel grounds. Recently, they added a glorious picnic lunch to their offerings, complete with all the breads, cheeses, charcuterie and desserts one might expect in Paris. The cocktail bar, called Le Très Particulier, has its own private garden in the back of the house that plays with a Garden of Eden aesthetic. The cocktails are exquisitely unique, not to mention fairly strong. It’s also beyond perfect, and I mean beyond, for private events. In fact, it was nearly difficult to leave the hotel, even with the splendors of Montmartre lying just outside your door. For sightseers, Sacre Coeur and the Dali Museum are just a five minute walk. 10 out of 10, highly recommend.

Hôtel Providence is situated on a quant corner of Paris’ Eastern District. We lucked out with a balcony with a killer view—I can’t emphasize how badly I wanted to sit there all night. Built in 1854, the hotel contains 15 regular rooms, 2 junior suites and a large suite. As seems to be the trend in Paris, each room is individually designed with designer fabrics and gorgeous vintage furniture. The large iMac computer in each room provides for modern convenience while an old-fashioned cocktail bar roots you in the past. Other highlights include the clawfoot tubs and full restaurant on the ground floor, complete with outdoor seating.

For a truly old school taste of Paris, head to Hôtel de la Bretonnerie, built back in 1680. Once a family residence, the hotel is larger than it seems, although a quick tour proves each room to be highly unique, in everything from wallpaper to layout (certain rooms are two-floor studios, which would be ideal for family visits). Located in the heart of the Marais, a stay at the hotel comes complete with a complimentary breakfast in a room that was once used for food and beverage storage. While the staff has certainly updated various elements of the establishment, others such as the wood beam and stunning wallpaper are original.

Hôtel Thoumieux is noted numerous times in reviews as a favorite for the fashion elite, flocking to Paris for fashion weeks and beyond. 15 rather large rooms are tucked away in a building that also contains a Michelin-starred restaurant, which is perhaps the most famous part of the establishment. The decoration is wonderfully bold, with various clashing patterns reminiscent of the 70s—the hotel seems to take you to an entirely different era, which is fitting since it’s large brasserie on the ground floor is indeed centuries old. The icing on the cake? A bathroom fully equipped with Aesop products.

Famous for its parties, lavish décor, and indoor pool situation, we found ourselves at Les Bains for a party just a few nights before staying there. Our room came equipped with a MASSIVE private balcony, not to mention my favorite bathrobes of the trip (I’m really into bathrobes ¯_(ツ)_/¯). The plush bed was incredibly relaxing after a quick dip in the heated pool, which comes equipped with one of those “rich people things” (description from a friend) that blows out water so you can swim laps while staying in place. Overall, it’s a lovely mix of glamour and all-around-cool, making it perfect for guests of all ages. The restaurant, described as a neo-brasserie, is perfect if you want to stop by for a meal or quick cocktail. The restaurant sources all of its menu from local and sustainable producers for superb quality; even the honey comes directly from beehives on the roof.

To top things off, we did something outside of hotel life at a fairly new restaurant called Les Apôtres de Pigalle. The hidden gem of a tapas restaurant served up some of the best duck and mac n cheese I’ve ever had, not to mention a full and eccentric wine list to pair. Service was extraordinary, with servers making sure you were fully taken care of and aware of the best of the best on their menu. The caipirinha cocktails are a must!

Photos courtesy of Erik Galli.

Stay tuned to Milk.xyz for more lit travel diaries.

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