Jeremy Scott's New Muse: Dolly on Molly
Every season, Jeremy Scott magically comes up with a new wacky fantasyland, from fembots on acid for Spring/Summer ’16 to the Cabbage Patch Kid cupie dolls seen last fall, and this season was no different. Actually—it was. It was better. For Fall/Winter ’16 the designer described his collection as “Dolly on molly.” What’s not to love?
Inspired by the country star hero of his Kansas City upbringing, the one and only Dolly Parton, Scott designed a collection of Western-inspired pieces with a fluffy flair that were brightened and bedazzled within an inch of sensory overload. “I was thinking about cowgirls and Westerns and just really wanted to go mad with it,” he said after the show.
Karlie Kloss opened the show that began with traditional country silhouettes, from silk cowboy shirts and denim skirts to fringe leather pants, shown in bold Technicolor fabrics and kaleidoscopic prints. The models’ hair had been to teased to the high heavens, with the girls sporting bouncy bouffants and boys rocking Johnny Bravo looks, because as they say in the South, the higher the hair the closer to God.
Midway through the show, Scott took his cowboys (and girls) to space. “It’s a theme that’s really graphic and just lent itself well to the collection,” he said of the extraterrestrial inspiration. Leather pants and skirts were treated with metallic finishes, body-con dresses and co-ords were adorned with mini orbs, and mohair knits featured their own neon solar systems. And it wouldn’t be a Jeremy Scott show with a cartoon component, which came courtesy of ‘90s Nick at Night stars Ren & Stimpy. The devilish duo rocked out on guitars and played astronaut on t-shirts, dresses, and knee-high boots that are sure to be street style fodder come fall.
The thumping soundtrack was mixed by the one and only Michel Gaubert, and featured Blondie’s “Hanging on the Telephone,” a French cover of Arthur Brown’s “Fire”, and Lydia Lunch’s “Atomic Bongos.” He also worked in Devo’s “Whip It,” an on the nose reference to his Scott’s designs.
The entire show felt like a Country Western rave in the middle of NYC. Has that ever happened? It definitely should.
Read more of our Fall/Winter ’16 runway recaps here.
Gif art by Kathryn Chadason.