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Ottolinger Delivered Divine Deconstruction [NYFW]

If, for their FW16 collection, Ottolinger made what they deemed carefully constructed “couture” clothes that they promptly set on fire, then for their SS17 collection, which they showed today with MADE New York, they seemed to have taken a trove of very fine fabric, ripped it to shreds, and then sewed it back together again—in that purposeful, haphazard way that’s so popular today. Raised in Switzerland, Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient are the minds behind the Berlin-based label. And though only three collections deep, Ottolinger has, through careful, sartorial deviance, built up quite the hype, inspiring in the younger fashion crowd that emerging brand-flavored fever that’s so familiar to downtown NYC. Yet whereas some of these up-and-comers have proven to be little more than hype, Ottolinger is quickly proving to be a label with longevity. That fever has, after all, taken hold of both Rihanna and Kanye.

And if you take a look at their SS17 collection, it’s easy to see why. Their “repurposed” aesthetic is an example of something that might look undemanding and effortless, but is, in actuality, incredibly complicated. The stocking fabric, for instance, that comprised the bulk of the collection, was, as they told us “really challenging” to “[sew] together.” Challenging, and yet—as they also told us—“interesting [too].” Their design process isn’t merely taking a heap of fabric, stuffing it into a blender, and then maybe letting it get caught in a couple doors; rather, the infrastructure of both their clothes and their label as a whole is rooted in skillful, expertly crafted designs that’s on par with couture. Look closely at the reworked, shredded, deconstructed clothes they showed today, for instance, and you’ll notice that everything from the cut and the shape, to the fall of the garments was clearly intentional. And for that, we are eternally grateful.

#ottolinger @made it!! #runwaytorunway @airserbia 🎯 @marcgoehring 🎼 @x_yanling_x @house_0001

A photo posted by OTTOLINGER (@ottolinger1000) on

It’s in the Details…

Keeping with their deconstructed aesthetic, Ottolinger incorporated lots of duct tape into their SS17 show today—from the actual runway, on which plastic was duct taped to the floor, and done in such a way that made u think it was there to preserve something, to the boots, which were wrapped up in duct tape, mummy-style.

Flashback Friday…

And speaking of which, those boots were bonkers—in the best way possible. They were pointed toe stilettos that appeared to be fashioned out of crocodile and came in earth tones like burnt orange and desert beige. Just seeing them sent a shockwave of recognition through our system; they were ‘90s in a way that no one has done before—except, well, ’90s era Lil’ Kim. And that is precisely why we love them.

We Spied…

White, full-butt underwear—sometimes unaffectionately referred to as “granny panties”—in every look that was fashioned out of that sheer, stocking material. And there were a lot of those. Just thinking about the prospect of this style of underwear becoming the norm has us giddy with joy; to be safe, we’re stowing away all of our thongs in a trash bag tonight.

The colors that gave us life…

The whole palette was like an orgy of our favorite earth tones. There was marigold, burnt orange, mustard yellow, and a whole slew of beige. If we learned anything from Rihanna‘s Anti tour—and you know we did—then these are colors she would certainly fuck with.

Adding to Our Shopping Lists…

Three looks. One was a pink, satin, cropped jacket. Another was a black, full PVC look. And last, but certainly not least: the sheer, body-hugging pants that, thanks to the cut and material, had a natural flare.

Photos by Andrew Boyle

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