Poetry, Patchwork, & Intricate Details at Eckhaus Latta [NYFW]
Whether they’re reclaiming the word “woman,” challenging the patriarch, abandoning gender-specific pronouns, or dismantling the human sexuality spectrum (and then tying it around their neck as a choker), they’re all doing it on Instagram, and they were all in attendance at the Eckhaus Latta show today.
While standing in a horde of bleached hair and harnesses, clown collars and knee tattoos, waiting to be let in to Seward Park where the show was held, I spotted roughly four timepieces and one monocle, before overhearing someone behind me tell their friend that no, they did not go out last night—they stayed home on their couch, casting spells. Yet just as I was about to hunker down and attempt to unpack this sentence, the gates opened and I was met with another, equally confounding sentence: “As all my flesh moves toward the center of my face like an anus / My eyes are sea urchins and all I can think to say is / “Charge her.” It was the Eckhaus Latta show notes—and yes, it was formatted as a poem.
Then again, perhaps that was the point—to challenge everyone to decipher the collection themselves, rather than be spoon-fed the precise meaning and inspiration by the designers. To put in work, as it were; after all, Zoe Latta and Mike Eckhaus certainly did.
You could see it in the deliberately fluid ways the garments fell, and you could see it in the construction. Intricate stitching—sometimes in abstract, geometric shapes—and durable looking, double slider zippers added ample depth to otherwise monochromatic ivory looks. They delivered their usual crop of pants and jeans—complete with their signature, butt-hugging-but-not-too-sexy, Bushwick fit—but better. One particularly impressive pair had a layered, asymmetrical, cuff-like detail going on at the hem that beckoned us (but mostly our wallets). There was corset detailing, patchwork denim, and shirts sewed onto back pockets of pants. Yet most notably of all was the hefty offering of their signature, chunky knit; it came in top and pants sets, sweaters, and more tops.
And we want in.
Hair by Sassoon / lead Michael Forrey.
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