Proenza Schouler killed it with french flavoured business casual
A pantsuit for women used to be synonymous with stiff, homely looks with very little leeway. But not anymore! There are an inordinate number of designers churning out different style trousers and blazers today, and Proenza Schouler is but one of them. In fact, one could argue that their Fall/Winter ’16 collection turned out some of the most different and enticing blazers and trousers we’ve seen yet.
The first thing that struck me about the collection was the texture—the fine yet durable and sumptuous fabric used throughout. Most notably were the knits, which looked very similar to their infallible, Céline-y knits of seasons past; leather that was so shiny, you could feasibly slip n’ slide on them; an extremely chic, flexible fabric I can only describe as expensive-looking or tree bark-like; and the denim-corduroy looking thing, which I believe is the official term for what Vogue calls “wool twill.”
The whole collection was very French sounding last name—very Jamie Bochert, if you will. There were the form-fitting knits, but it was the array of comfortable, languid, hourglass-enhancing pieces that really took the (Momofuku birthday) cake.
Drape-y blouses and trousers were put in place by nice and tidy blazers and the lace that fastened them shut. So blazers with an already feminine silhouette were made even more captivating and graceful with this lace-up closure, and I really can’t stress enough how deeply I’m into it.
The lacing continued into dresses in that bark fabric I was telling you about. In these, the lacing took place on the shoulders and under the breast—and thank God it did. For, if they hadn’t been laced together, we might’ve had a long-sleeve crop top problem on our hands. Also worth noting are the dresses that revealed elastic halter straps underneath, as if the model had thrown the dress over a bathing suit after a quick dip—swim-to-business casual, minus the yeast infection…is what we’ll call it.
Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez also offered up a patchwork fur coat with bondage-y belt details for which Anna Dello Russo is currently placing an order, and boots in both burnt orange and white with a metal toe—perfect for those barely-made-the-subway moments, when you gracelessly slide your foot between the two closing doors.
To make matters even more irresistible, Jack and Lazaro presented their collection at the Whitney. As always, the designers seem to know exactly what their customers want, and—given their decision to make eight of the looks immediately available for purchase—when they want it too.
Photography by Sonny Vandevelde.
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