Simone Rocha Put Her Angelic Style To Good Use
Simone Rocha, always a favorite during London Fashion Week, once again flaunted her sublime skill and radiantly feminine aesthetic with her Fall/Winter ’16 collection. As usual, she ushered in an array of below-the-knee dresses in white and pale pink sheer fabrics, with floral embroidery of the same color. Yet unlike past collections, some of these sheer numbers were worn over tweed suits. The effect was kind of academic, yet unmistakably Rocha; even the tweed was suffused with her angelic signature.
Rocha had a baby girl, Valentine, just three months ago, and the birth profoundly influenced the collection. As the designer told Vogue, “I started to do this wrapping and swaddling with stoles. There’s something a bit surgical and matronly going on—sick-y nudes, the lilac of the uniforms that nurses used to wear. Medical aprons; knitting as women do when there’s a baby coming; schlumpy, relaxed shapes—and a little bit of trauma!” We would kill to see her mood board—a good medical trauma is always fascinating, in a delightfully horrifying way.
While Rocha’s clothes are always ladylike, we liked that some of the embellishment went in a saucier direction; flower embroidery outlined breasts in kind of a salacious way. We’re into it. The clothes all featured glamorous details, like gold embroidery, sparkles, and jewels, but still managed to veer away from fussiness. Is it wrong to say that this season looked like Helena Bonham Carter literally died and went to heaven?
The look was somewhat Victorian, which was enhanced by the setting, a grand old mansion called Lancaster House. But there was real ease to the garments–perhaps because they featured a relaxed, dropped shoulder line. Very Crimson Peak meets Petra Collins.
Beyond our favorite diaphanous looks, we were really feeling the beauty. The hair was left in rollers, but not neatly like a Mad Men scene—this was messy. Hairstylist James Pecis told the New York Times that viewers should “Imagine a young girl who is dressing in her grandmother’s clothes, stealing her chandelier earrings and reinventing her elderly hair in a disheveled way.” If our grandmother wore these clothes, we’d definitely dress in all of them.