Slime, Kitschy '80s, & UFO Party Dresses at Jeremy Scott [NYFW]
As long as you aren’t averse to color or texture, then you can rest assured there’s a Jeremy Scott piece out there for you. There’s a reason his unofficial title is “the people’s designer,” just as there is also a reason “this is always the most fun show!” is a refrain that reverberates throughout every single one of his runway shows. Each and every one of his collections is rooted in a very specific, very bright theme—oftentimes a confluence of multiple clashing ideas. There was his FW16 collection, which he dubbed “Dolly [Parton] on Molly”; there was his SS16 collection, which he described as “fembots on acid”; and for SS17, which he showed this morning at The Arc at The Skylight Moynihan Station, he presented a collection that was steeped in ‘80s era New York City—to a New York City heavy crowd, no less. To reiterate: the guy is an undeniable, chronic, an always successful people pleaser.
As Scott told us, “It’s a love letter to New York, the olden days when it was very seedy and a little bit more rough and Times Square had X-rated peep shows and nudie shows.”
Staying true to his affinity for collection titles that sound like themed parties Paris Hilton might host (that’s a good thing, by the way), he titled this season “Slime City”—and like his past collections, this title was no euphemism. Peppered throughout were sweater dresses, crop top and skirt sets, and men’s sweaters that featured a green, gooey graphic—as if, immediately before the clothes were thrown onto the models, they were first ushered through a quick game of Family Double Dare, and doused in green slime. And that didn’t even cover half of the collection. The majority featured colors, prints, fabrics, and silhouettes that all harkened back to that period of the ‘80s when everyone seemed to get dressed in a state of blissful unconsciousness, when everyone seemed to share the same geometric-heavy, cheesy sci-fi infused ilk of bad taste. Which is certainly not to say that the collection was bad. On the contrary! The fact that Scott was able to turn a time of ample style misfortunes into looks that we’d not only wear, but covet, is a clear, extraordinary feat.
The Look Lowdown…
There’s no question that the whole of this collection was a sartorial nod to the ‘80s. And not just any old ‘80s either, but rather the retro-heavy period in the early ‘80s. From the green and black checkered print to the triangular, two-toned sunglasses that were made in collaboration with Alain MiKLi, to even the last hurrah of geometric, flying saucer-esque, full sequin looks, the clothes had a nearly visceral connection to that seductively cheesy era, when mildly undulating hips was symptomatic of a defiantly provocative disposition (and could get you into biiiiiig trouble).
It’s in the Details…
Another print that made a frequent appearance consisted of faces that could’ve easily walked straight out of a Robert Palmer video. Blown up, pallid faces replete with that ‘80s, slightly foggy and fully kitschy, airbrushed-looking makeup. Sometimes these faces even sported the same aforementioned Back to the Future Part II, triangular, two-tone sunglasses that many of the models wore.
Adding to Our Shopping Lists…
All of Scott’s many iterations of leather motorcycle jackets—and there were many. They came long, in black patent leather; long and trench-style, in a lustrous red; and cropped in a glossy black and blue.
A black mini dress look that featured a thin, leather belt choker, affixed to which was a chain that connected to another, smaller black leather loop. The model was holding it in such a way that made it look like she was walking herself, and in doing so, made it look very appealing; approaching the tail end of fashion week, the prospect of us being able to walk ourselves, while highly impossible, is nonetheless encouraging.
The Look That Gave Us Life…
It was part of the final, sequin-coated brigade—a geometric box skirt (of sorts) that looked as if the model had stepped, feet first, into a black leather hamper, and then stalked right out of the house. Scott described it as looking like “an alien landed a UFO on a party dress.” It both gave us life and looked like a fine place to store life. By which we mean: to hide a pregnancy.
Photos taken exclusively for Milk by Maya Fuhr.
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