The SS16 Campaigns Fashion Editors Are Going Gaga Over
For an industry that operates at such a mind-boggling speed, fashion isn’t entirely caught up in the realm of campaigns. More often than not, fashion labels summon one of six celebrated fashion photographers to shoot one of 12 trending models—either straight-on in unremarkable shots; lounging about in a manner that’s far too nonchalant for the mink pelt coat and python boots they’re wearing; or else looking much too busy to star in a campaign, hastily en route to some unknown locale, arm-in-arm with an equally unknown male model.
Sometimes brands will attempt to dip their toes in the pool of dubious, unchartered territories—and, in doing so, fall painfully flat. An African Maasai village, for instance. That’s where Valentino shot their latest campaign—and after all, what is a severely impoverished, hut-dwelling Nilotic ethnic group of semi-nomadic African people if not a stellar backdrop for lace embroidered and feather appliqued gowns?
But this doesn’t mean we should lose all hope; every so often, a fashion campaign comes along that restores some faith in the fashion industry and its admirers, and helps you justify the 170 lb stack of magazines you’re hoarding in your already micro-sized home. So feast your eyes—and then let out a big sigh of relief—on five such campaigns below.
Yes, this is a Paco Rabanne campaign, but does it not more closely resemble the lovechild of Alex da Corte and Maurizio Catellan? Perhaps with a bit of Jeurgen Teller thrown in? So far, this is the only image that has been released from the SS16 campaign—and, from the looks of it, can be found only on Instagram. Particularly on Alexander Fury‘s, Lou Stoppard‘s, and other esteemed fashion editor’s and critic’s feeds, praising the label’s creative director Julien Dossena for the highly artistic, somewhat subdued, and notably human-less campaign image. Or, to put differently: my dream room.
Nothing says “boom, roasted” like losing a campaign to a fictional video game character. It’s unlikely that this was Nicolas Ghesquiere’s motivation behind casting Final Fantasy’s Lightning for his SS16 campaign, but it’s a burn nonetheless. Ghesquiere casted some humans too—namely Jean Campbell, Sarah Brannon, Rianne Van Rompaeyand, and a skirt-donning Jaden Smith—but it was video game artist, designer, and director Tetsuya Normura’s rendering of a casually fierce, Louis Vuitton-clad Lightning that felt the most fresh.
For Acne’s SS16 menswear collection, creative director Johnny Johansson took inspiration from surf culture—and so it makes sense that he would suffuse his first-ever menswear campaign with the same theme. Starring Robin Kegel—the surfer and surfboard artist who made some patterns for the SS16 designs—the campaign was shot by David Sims. Sims is of course a renowned photographer, but he’s also a devoted surfer. And the images themselves evoke the water sport—coated in an almost wavy, hazy, distorted film that makes the images look as if they’re being viewed under water ,or after spending one too many hours in the sun.
Courrèges’ SS16 campaign marks the brand’s first campaign since Sébastian Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant took over, and thus a pivotal moment for the brand. Luckily, Courrèges delivered, far exceeding anyone’s expectations with an equally pivotal campaign that will doubtless be remembered in history. Amidst the current thirst for the most buzzworthy faces that will generate the most likes, it’s so refreshing to see a fashion campaign devoid of any face whatsoever. So far, the campaign consists of three images, each of three different words in black lettering on white paper: “Jacket,” “Dress,” and “Skirt.” It’s a modest display of brand promotion and nothing short of brilliant. Giving fashion editors one more reason to celebrate the brand, the designers told WWD of their minimal campaign, “The message is simple: Erase the superfluous, go back to essentials, the thing that makes fashion what it is — the product,” the house said. “At a time when images are omnipresent and sometimes devoid of meaning, words remind us that language is our most precious asset.”
Equipment, the purveyor of basic button-downs, is not typically known for their high fashion editorials. Which is what makes their Daria Werbowy-lensed SS16 campaign so noteworthy. In an epic role reversal, the veteran fashion model went behind the camera and shot none other than Kate Moss, with occasional snippets of Daria’s own reflection. Werbowy and Moss flaunt their natural beauty, wearing barely any makeup in the black and white, semi nude photos.
Stay tuned to Milk for more SS16 news.